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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Bratrská věž
From the boulder at the SE edge (by aid climbing) and through the crack to the edge.… Rock Climbing
5+
Bratrská věž
Follow the old path to the fore-summit. Up the uphill wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Bachyně
In the North face, diagonally left along the crack (hourglass) to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bratrská věž
Through the crack in the uphill wall to the fore-summit, step over and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Bratrská věž
From the SE edge, traverse right on a ledge into the valley wall and up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
4+
Bachyně
In the valley wall, crack, higher up the gully directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bachyně
From the massif, a short descent and then an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bachyně
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bachyně
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Májová věž
Start approximately 7 m right of the "Sandstorm" route, up the wall over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Velký Pravčický kužel
Left of the South Route over 5 bolts to the ring of Arnold's variant of the Valley Route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pravčický roh
In the middle of the gorge, descend through a long chimney and up the wall into the "Old… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Koráb
From the massif, descend westwards through a crevice and then a chimney southwards for… Rock Climbing
6-
Koráb
Directly up the valley edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Koráb
From the overgrown sloping ledge on the NW side (BH - Ma musique route belay) From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Koráb
From the massif on the right, descend through the chimney to the slab. Jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Koráb
On the NW side from the overgrown sloping ledge (belay - BH) up the wall over 3 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Koráb
In the middle of the SE wall up to the ledge. Traverse left and follow the edge to below… Rock Climbing
4-
Koráb
From the south, traverse the chimney in the corner between the tower and the massif into… Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the N side, by chimney to the pillar. Right and like the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the NW side, by overgrown wall diagonally right to the notch, through it to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Koráb
From the W side, by gully to the chimney, through it into the upper wall and by wall to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Měsíční stěna
From the pillar left of the Smuggler's Crack, by wall over 6K to the summit plateau … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Měsíční stěna
From N from the gully, about 10 m left of the NW edge, into a short corner crack and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Měsíční stěna
In the SW face between the Pressfoto and Smuggler's Crack routes, by fissure to the end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Měsíční stěna
In the middle of the W face, by crack (ring), higher by chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Měsíční stěna
Right of the Smuggler's Crack, by corner crack and wall to the shelf. Traverse right and… Rock Climbing
?
Měsíční stěna
From the K route Pressfoto, traverse 3 meters right in the ledge into a crack and up it,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7-/7
Jehla Pravčického dolu
From the southern foothills along the SW ridge over 6K and two hours to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Čínská zeď
In the right part of the massif, in the middle of the lower bivouac, climb the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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