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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Zuzanka
Overgrown gully of the "Swedish She-Bear" route to the fault. Traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4+
Zuzanka
From the upland side traverse right to the balcony in the valley wall and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zuzanka
On the right in the S wall, chimney to the balcony. On the right under the gully in the E… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zuzanka
Left of the NW edge over the ring to the ledge and by the valley edge route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zuzanka
SW edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kulíšek
Building from the foothills to the upland (SE) wall and then to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Diblík
Up the West face along the left edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kulíšek
Left along the South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kulíšek
Up the West edge diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Diblík
From the massif, descend to the sandstone protrusions and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Diblík
Up the squeeze chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Diblík
Left of the chimney, up the overhanging face past 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zvon
Up the Northeast edge to the notch, (stance) and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zvon
Like the Náhorní cesta to the ledge and then up the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zvon
Through the center of the upper face, past the bolt to the summit. (Route dedicated to… Rock Climbing
4-
Zvon
Right in the Southwest face, up the broken gully to the balcony and then via the Old… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zvon
Left in the Southwest face to the block, hand traverse over the overhang to the West edge… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Zvon
Right of the Náhorní cesta, up the overhanging edge to the West edge and then to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Zvon
Right in the upper face to the ledge, briefly right and along the rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zvon
Up the East face diagonally left to the balcony and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Napoleon
Along the edge, past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Pivař
Right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Pivař
Left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pivař
Right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Pivař
Through the middle of the south face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pivař
Left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pavoučí hrad
All the way to the right, up the face over 2 rings and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Tokáňská skříň
In the valley wall from the right to the ring, traverse left over the overhang to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Schovaná jehla
From the massif, descend to the right onto the ledge and drop onto the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Schovaná jehla
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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