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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Věž mládí
To the left of the variant of the Old Route, up the chimney directly over the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kuželka
From the South, up the corner under the overhang, right to a platform and diagonally left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž mládí
Like the Old Route, go left to the large ledge and up the wall (as you like) directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4+
Kuželka
Up the upper wall to a balcony and over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kuželka
From the SE up the chimney to a platform, then using a chimney-like feature and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kuželka
From the upper (E) edge traverse left to the 'clocks' (feature), then directly up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Osecká věž
To the left of the „Černý orel" (Black Eagle) route, from the balcony or from the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Lampa
Directly under the abseil, up the subtle chimney (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lampa
From the ring, left over the overhang and along the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lampa
Along the upland edge (ring) and to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Lampa
Along the right valley edge, straight up (bolt) over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lampa
From the wall diagonally right to the platform in the valley wall (ring). Rightwards over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Slon
Left of the SW edge, up the face to the ring and diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Slon
NE face into the gully (ring) and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Slon
In the left part of the valley-facing (S) face, up the face and crack to the ring. Notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Slon
Left in the uphill face to the hole and up the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Slon
From the South edge traverse left to the gully. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Slon
From the N E edge traverse right along the balcony in the valley-facing wall to below the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Slon
Up the edge past 2 BH and left up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Slimák
From the edge to the platform and right over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Slimák
Center of the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Slimák
From the boulder, up the West face diagonally left, behind the edge into the crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Malé žluté cimbuří
To the right of the chimney, climb the wall to the niche and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Slimák
On the Southeast face, briefly climb the left edge, then to the right and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malé žluté cimbuří
To the right on the South face, climb the gully to the hourglasses, traverse to the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malé žluté cimbuří
To the right on the South face, climb the gully to the hourglasses and the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malé žluté cimbuří
To the right on the South face, climb the gully to the hourglasses and traverse to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malé žluté cimbuří
Climb the right crack on the North face (ring), then higher climb the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malé žluté cimbuří
To the left on the downhill (North) face, over the overhang to the platform and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malé žluté cimbuří
From the start of the Old Route, a long traverse to the left to the Northwest edge (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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