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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Strážní věž
From the saddle, follow the crack in the rounded upper edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Rošťák (Kulišák)
On the right side of the south face, go past the large clock towards the notch and then… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6-
Rošťák (Kulišák)
In the middle of the south face, diagonally left into the exit of the old route and… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4+
Rozporová věž
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing
6
Rozporová věž
Up the edge directly over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Rozporová věž
Up the western edge to the ring and diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bonifác
On the right in the valley wall to the ring, traverse right and to the subpeak. Then like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Bonifác
On the right in the upland wall, up the edge and over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4-
Bonifác
Up the valley corner to the foreshore and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bonifác
On the right in the valley wall, directly to the exit of the Fragile Traverse route. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
3
Bonifác
On the left in the upland wall to the foreshore and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Próra
Up the SW edge over the overhang to the ring. Along the fissure to the hole and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Próra
Up the South edge (ring), over the slab (2nd ring) under the overhang and right (3rd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Próra
In the left part of the South face, directly to the ring, higher up the diagonal wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Próra
On the right in the SW face, climb the corner, higher up the chimney directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rezidence
In the West face, briefly climb the crack to the ledge and traverse left to the 1st ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Rezidence
Through the middle of the North face, climb the wall over 3 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Rezidence
Up the short crack and the west edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Rezidence
On the left in the North face, climb the wall over 2 rings, higher diagonally right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Rezidence
Climb the double crack from SW (Radan's Corner route) for 4 m and traverse left just… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Rezidence
To the right of the "Selanka" route (between the Residence and Próra massifs), climb the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Hacienda
From the right, climb the crack to the North edge and along it over 2 rings to the "City… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hacienda
From the South, climb the wall over a ring into the notch. Directly up the wall, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Mravenčí stěna
Up the wall left of the downhill edge over the 'clock' feature to the bolt. Up the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pevnost
Right of the chimney, up the overhanging wall into the small corner and follow it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pevnost
From the gully, a long traverse right along the lower notch over the 'clock' feature… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pevnost
Up the chimney over the wedged boulder to the end and traverse right to the small balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hraběnka
From the exposed side, traverse right into the East wall to the ring and crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Hladká věž
Left of the Great Overhang, jump to the edge and follow it n. v. (not verified). Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hladká věž
From the massif southwest of the tower, overhang with stemming and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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