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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Poštolčí kužel
Start "The Old Way" and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Divoká věž
Up the left crack in the North face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Spare Route
5
Divoká věž
Up the right crack in the North face to the end. Traverse left and via the "North Route"… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Divoká věž
From the South route's footbridge, up the wall below the rappel point, directly to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Divoká věž
To the summit via the Southwest edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Divoká věž
From the start of the "Old Route", via the footbridge diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Divoká věž
On the left in the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Divoká věž
From the upper side, up the edge or crack near the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž Petra Rady
Directly to the summit through the center of the South face. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Petra Rady
Along the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž Petra Rady
On the right side of the north face, up the overhanging wall, past the bolt, directly to… Rock Climbing
5
Věž Petra Rady
Up the corner to the left of the West edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Okurka
Directly to the summit via the upper edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Petra Rady
Up the south face, left to the balcony and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Okurka
To the left of the Valley route, up the wall, traversing left along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Okurka
Through the middle (N) of the valley-side wall to the notch, and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Okurka
Between the tower and the massif, follow the chimney and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Okurka
In the narrow west face, follow the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mariina věž
Via the southeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Strážní věž
From the base of the tower in the middle of the valley-side wall, follow the hand crack… Rock Climbing
3
Strážní věž
To the left of the "Valley Chimney" route, follow the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Strážní věž
Over the overhanging valley edge via 3 rings to the balcony. A short crack leads to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Strážní věž
From the saddle, make a long traverse right into the southeast face and up the diagonal… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážní věž
To the right of the saddle, follow the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Strážní věž
In the left part of the north face, follow the lower ledge left to the edge, over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Strážní věž
In the valley-side wall (left of the very wide chimney), diagonally left via a rib to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Strážní věž
To the left of route c) follow the wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní věž
m to the left of route b) follow the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážní věž
By the corner to the left of the saddle to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní věž
From the saddle, follow the crack in the rounded upper edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route

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