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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Vodník
By opposition between the block and the tower, then up the wall and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vodník
By chimney and gully in the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pivní kámen
In the right part of the downhill wall, along a blunt edge past the 'clock' feature… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pivní kámen
With the downhill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pivní kámen
On the right, in the uphill wall, along an edge directly upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pivní kámen
From the east, via a chimney to the sub-peak and via the face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pivní kámen
In the downhill wall, through a crack and chimney, higher up via "Old Route". Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mňouk
Start as for the Klička route, via that to a ledge, then traverse over the edge into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Baba (Hádavá hlava)
From the upland side, via an overhanging rib, higher up via a corner to a pillar, and the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tank
Via the face near the northeast edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7-
Tank
Via the smooth north face. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Tank
Via the northwest corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Tank
Through the center of the west face. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Tank
Via the face around the southwest edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6+
Tank
Via the south face across a fault. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
1
Tank
Slightly via the south face. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7-/7
Kouřová stěna
In the left part of the massif, up the wall through a ring under the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Lesní hlavička
Left wall from the route "Cleaner" over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Overhang
6-
Kouřová stěna
Center of the wall to the crack, through the overhang and up the wall through a ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Kouřová stěna
In the middle of the N valley wall over BH (pitons) and 2 BH to the abseiling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
Přeskok
Baldurova jehla
Center of the S wall of the opposite massif over the iron plates to the balcony and jump… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Baldurova jehla
In the right part of the North face directly to a ring, left into a crack and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Baldurova jehla
Center of the S wall with cracks to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
Přeskok
Masiv u Baldurovy jehly
Freely to the ring of the route "Tokáň v plamenech" (Tokáň in flames) and left up a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Masiv u Baldurovy jehly
On the massif from the valley side, up a crack over a ring to a ledge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Masiv u Baldurovy jehly
On the massif, completely on the left, up the edge over a ring to the ledge of the massif. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
Přeskok
Masiv u Baldurovy jehly
On the right in the South face to a ring, up the edge to the right to a ledge. (Jump to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Hladová věž
On the left in the uphill wall to the balcony and via "Odvedenecka Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hladová věž
Left of the valley S edge, up the wall under the overhang. Over the overhang (key point)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hladová věž
Along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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