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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Hladová věž
Along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hladová věž
Through the center of the SW wall over 2 key points directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hladová věž
On the left in the uphill (N) wall traverse left behind the edge to the small platform.… Rock Climbing
3
Francouzská věž
With the crack to the boulder, go under it and from the right onto it. From the boulder,… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Nahodilá věž
From the massif descend to the platform and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Jehla v Mostkách
Up the edge to the hourglasses, bridging and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Tuplák
From the center of the S face through a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Tuplák
To the left of the Zelený voko route, up the wall through a ring to the edge (hourglasses… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Adamova věž
From the high side, via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Roberta Manzera
Via the northwest edge to the west summit. Descend to the saddle and take the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Věž Roberta Manzera
Up the face to the right of the "Old Route" and then via a crack to the west summit.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Věž Roberta Manzera
From the right or left, traverse over the overhang to the southwest edge and follow it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Věž Roberta Manzera
Following the left crack from the boulder to the west saddle and then via the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Věž Roberta Manzera
From the boulder, follow the cracks in the south face to the west saddle and then via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Věž Roberta Manzera
On the left in the south face to the 'clock' feature and diagonally right to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž Roberta Manzera
Center of the south face, passing a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Věž Roberta Manzera
Up the NE edge to the overhang, right and up the diagonal crack to the East saddle and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Věž Roberta Manzera
Up the left crack in the North face to the diagonal crack. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Věž Roberta Manzera
Directly up the center of the narrow East face over a bolt directly to the East summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Věž Roberta Manzera
Up the right crack in the South face to the East saddle and via "The Old Way" to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
2+
Věž Roberta Manzera
Up the crack in the center of the North face diagonally right to the West saddle between… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Věž Roberta Manzera
Left of the route "The Old Way" up the wall to the East saddle and via "The Old Way" to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Věž Roberta Manzera
Left of the route "Dawn" up the wall to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Věž Roberta Manzera
From the corner diagonally right to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Kostelní věž
From the small tower South of the main tower, overhang to the edge, traverse right and… Rock Climbing
6-
Kostelní věž
As "Traverse Route" to the balcony and to the edge (clock), diagonally left through holes… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kostelní věž
Via route d) to the balcony, traverse right to the edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kostelní věž
Directly up the center of the valley (West) face to the platform and via "The Old Way" to… Rock Climbing
5
Poštolčí kužel
Direct variant of the SE route. From the left side, more in the valley, wall into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Poštolčí kužel
Directly up the center of the North face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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