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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Vlk
"The Old Route" to the ledge, along it to the right and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vlk
On the right in the uphill wall, via the chimney between the tower and the direct chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Vlk
Via the chimney between the Double Tower and the tower to the right onto a ledge. Via a… Rock Climbing
4+
Vlk
In the massif, descend via a crack, step across and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dvojitá věž
Via the valley-side wall, over small holes on the right, then left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Dvojitá věž
On the right in the north wall, straight up and right to the second ring of route f).… Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojitá věž
In the southwest wall, climb a slanting chimney to a ledge, via a small crack to the ring… Rock Climbing
4+
Vlk
Via the chimney between the tower and the massif to a ledge, via the South edge build up… Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá věž
Via the northern chimney to the lower summit and by a jump or fall to the summit. Poorly… Rock Climbing
3
Dvojitá věž
From the northeast, via a chimney between the massif and the tower to a balcony. Build up… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Dvojitá věž
From the south, build up and climb the wall to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá věž
North wall of the pre-summit, build up near the pine tree. Rock Climbing
5+
Převislá věž
Briefly along the southeast edge and after a flake, traverse right to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing
5+
Převislá věž
Via a small corner climb directly to the ring. Rock Climbing
6
Převislá věž
From the middle of the North face, over a small overhang and crack over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Převislá věž
Building up in the north wall and a wide crack in the middle wall. Rock Climbing
5
Převislá věž
Northeast edge over the overhang and edge to the ring. Along the edge into a groove. Via… Rock Climbing
5
Převislá věž
Build up in the western wall to a crack, follow it to a balcony, and climb the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Loupežník
Through the center of the southwest wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Loupežník
From the massif jump directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Loupežník
From the massif descend to the ledge, step over and up the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Loupežník
In the valley wall diagonally left across the wall to the south edge and to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Loupežník
By opposition between the tower and the massif to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Loupežník
Northern (W) edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Loupežník
South edge over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Malý muž
Up the upper (South) face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malý muž
From the East face, up the wall to the balcony, up the overhanging wall and the gully to… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý muž
In the North face, up the narrow overhanging wall and the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malý muž
Up the overhanging West face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kráva
To the left of the Downhill Gully, up the wall past 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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