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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Strážce klenotnice
From the plateau side, a gully to the balcony and right a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Černokněžník
From the 3rd bolt traverse left to the pine tree, up the wall to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
6-
Černokněžník
In the lower wall, a gully to the bolt, up the left edge past another 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Zámecká věž
On the left in the E wall, wall to the ring and left wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zámecká věž
From the massif, descend to the right through a chimney to the ledge, overhang and right… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zámecká věž
Start with the Menuet route, then crack running to the right to the ring. Overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zámecká věž
To the right of the Shadow Wall, over a bolt, higher to the right, wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Zámecká věž
On the right in the NE wall, diagonally right with a corner to the ring and left behind… Rock Climbing
5+
Zámecká věž
On the left in the S wall, briefly corner to the ledge, left behind the edge and over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Zámecká věž
Along the uphill edge upwards, traverse to the right and chimney to the overhang of the… Rock Climbing
5
Zámecká věž
In the uphill wall, crack to the balcony and like Zámecká cesta to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zámecká věž
On the left of the W edge, wall diagonally to the right and edge over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Domov důchodců
Far left from the chimney between the tower and the massif, a notch traverse to the SW… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Domov důchodců
Far right in the chimney between the tower and the massif, a small groove and face,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Domov důchodců
On the right from the massif, descend by a groove and fall and by a groove to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Domov důchodců
Descent through the center of the massif, jump to a step and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stěna nad ohništěm
In the center of the valley's overhanging wall, first to the left, then to the right over… Rock Climbing
6-
Velký Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the chimney in the East Face, go from the left to the edge and follow that… Rock Climbing
4+
Velký Plačtivý kámen
On the "White Wall" route, higher up below the bolt, traverse left into a chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Velký Plačtivý kámen
Follow the Valley Route to the 2nd bolt, traverse left, and climb the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
In the E wall, the right chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the Eastern Chimney, crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the large overhang, the overhanging wall and gully to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the Old Route, climb the wall and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Velbloudí věž
Uphill edge (ring). Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloudí věž
To the right of the Erární variant, take the wall to the boulder and then take the Old… Rock Climbing
4+
Velbloudí věž
Take the edge of the boulder to the right of the south chimney onto the boulder and then… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vlk
From the massif, descend to a balcony and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu
From the uphill side (building) onto a pointed ledge and then left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu
From the uphill side, take the wall to the right towards the pine tree and then the N… Rock Climbing

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