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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Maják
Left of the downhill edge along the crack to the pyrite. Above them to the right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dárek
Near the W edge, along the receding groove, along it and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dárek
Up the S wall with the overhanging start directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Maják
Up the plateau wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Dárek
Near the W edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dárek
From S up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Dárek
Up the chimney between the summit and the adjacent NE block, higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Sojčí věž
Right of the Mechová route, up the crack and chimney. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Trčoun
Like the Černá spára route to the circle. Long traverse to the right into the corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Trčoun
Right in the downhill wall, up the crack (circle) and chimney (2nd circle). Rock Climbing
4
Ježibaba
Center of the SE wall, right of the overhang, up the wall to the left (2 x slings) to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Ježibaba
Completely right in the SE wall, up the wall past the iron pyrite directly to the balcony… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6
Ježibaba
Right of the Mařenka route, up the wall (anchor) and along the rib to the balcony and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7
Ježibaba
From the downhill part, follow the crack over the overhang and up the wall to the anchor… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
7
Ježibaba
From S to the catwalk and traverse right into the downhill wall. Up the wall past the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ježibaba
Left, center of the S wall (circle) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Pašerák
Between the tower and the "Pytel" tower chimneying to the balcony on the "Pytel" tower.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pašerák
By the edge to the left of the chimney and to the left to the balcony. By the old route… Rock Climbing
4-
Pašerák
From the overhang of "Old Route" traverse to the right to the balcony, slightly through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Pašerák
Chimneying between the Pašerák tower and the Pytel tower to the balcony on Pytel.… Rock Climbing
4-
Žhář
Through the crack in the middle of the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Žhář
From the block near the uphill edge step over and through the wall over the balcony to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Temný kámen (Hejkal)
In the downhill wall, from the block by placing it into the crack, through it and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce Temného dolu
Start about 3 m to the right of "Old Route" through a slightly overhanging wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Železná ostrožna
Start on the left in the S wall through the chimney to the saddle, step over to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Železná ostrožna
From the left upper edge traverse to the left, until you reach the valley edge into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce Žabiho rohu
At the NE edge (positioned) and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Brtnička
From the right of the massif, descend, jump to the pulpit and like the "Upland Route" to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brtnička
To the left of the North edge, a ferruginous face to the pulpit and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kyjovský král
East edge directly to the top via a ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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