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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Žlutá stěna
Through the center of the S face by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Žlutá stěna
To the right in the S face by a short crack and to the right to K. Briefly to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Dvojhran
To the left of the Slunná route, over a bolt. Rock Climbing
4-
Amerika
To the left of the Veltlínský chimney route, through the middle of the pillar over BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
4+
Orlí stěna
In the middle of the narrow lower wall to K. Via the wall to the wide crack and up it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Osamělá věž
From the massif, jump left to the ledge and along the crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Orlí stěna
On the right in the south face via a corner and then a chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
Přeskok
Osamělá věž
From the massif, jump right to the "Old Route" ledge and along it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Osamělá věž
In the middle of the south face over the hole to the rib and to K. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Osamělá věž
On the north side, via a small wall into the cave, which we traverse to the south face… Rock Climbing
5+
Osamělá věž
Start into the hole of the Cave Route and via a chimney to K. Then straight up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Osamělá věž
In the left part of the south face to a crack and higher up via a fissure to a balcony.… Rock Climbing
4+
Osamělá věž
South face into the hole. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Osamělá věž
Via a crack in the right part of the lower wall upwards to a large hole. Traverse to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Osamělá věž
Via the crack of the "Last Bell" route to a large hole, then straight over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay +1
6
Osamělá věž
In the middle of the lower wall over the overhang into an oblique gully, then into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Osamělá věž
In the left part of the lower wall upwards to a gully to the 1st K, briefly to the right… Rock Climbing
5+
Osamělá věž
In the left part of the east face into a gully (sling) and a wall to a ledge. Further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Osamělá věž
Over a drop from the massif to the tower and briefly. Rock Climbing
2+
Osamělá věž
Via a crack in the upper wall to a platform and upwards through a gully. Rock Climbing
4-
Pravčela
On the right in the plateau north face to the BH, via the right or left crack, variation. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Pravčela
Via the left valley edge into the hole (hourglass) and to the right to K, via steps,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Zub
From the NE directly to the summit via a chimney crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zub
Start on the wall diagonally left to the right valley edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zub
Along the plateau (E) edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hlásný
Along the plateau (SE) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlásný
In the wall diagonally right to the ledge and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Hlásný
From the SE diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Maják
Up the right edge of the plateau wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Maják
Left of the downhill edge along the crack to the pyrite. Above them to the right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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