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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Cimbuří
In the left part of the S wall via the brittle wall under the overhang, to the right into… Rock Climbing
5+
Cimbuří
In the right part of the S wall via the crack to its end, to the right to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Cimbuří
In the right part of the S wall via the rib to the left and via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Herkules
From the wall over the hole to K. Wall diagonally right to the edge, crack and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Golem
To the right of the „Old route“ from a distinct tip jump to the end of the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Golem
In the left part of the N wall along the edge using two small cracks to K. Further into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Golem
From the passage along the edge to bh. Further behind the edge to the K of the Kamarádská… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Golem
In the left part of the SW wall, a curved crack over dK (added by the area manager n. v. Rock Climbing Danger Spare Route
7/7+
Golem
From the BH route „Late snack“ overhang right to the edge. Directly through it and higher… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Golem
In the N wall, left of the NW edge, wall over K under the overhang, over it (BH n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Golem
In the N wall right under a fine crack. Crack up to K and wall further n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Golem
Briefly up the Bič route and right wall to the 1st K Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Golem
In the left part of the J face, over the overhang into a niche to the 1st K. Right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Golem
From the niche (K placed into the notch and it n. v. Clean RP VIIc, Zdeněk Faltys … Rock Climbing
6
Golem
Right in the SW wall overhang over 2 holes and left to the 1st K, briefly up and right… Rock Climbing
6-
Golem
From the passage in the left part of the face, over the overhang into a diagonal crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Golem
From E, in the passage between the tower and the massif, briefly upwards in a groove and… Rock Climbing
2
Golem
From the massif on the E side, jump across to the face and up. Rock Climbing
6-
Krematorium
Up the center of the left side face over K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Krematorium
Up the face diagonally right to K. Up the face along the small BH cracks and from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Rašeliniště
In the left part of the N face, up the small cracks to K and straight up. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Krematorium
Over the overhang to the 1st K. From there, slightly right to the 2nd K and further up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Rašeliniště
Up the center of the J face over 2 K. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Urakova hora
Up the crack in the middle of the face to K, from there right into the 'Severní cesta'… Rock Climbing
5
Štěně
At the beginning of the chimney in the North face, crack (loops) or chimneying to K. From… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Štěně
Start in the chimney between the massif and the Hřebenová tower. Up the left chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Štěně
m to the right of the route "Path across the tap" overhang into a hole to a crack.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7/7+
Štěně
From the left, overhanging wall into a fault in the South face and to 1st K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Štěně
Through the right part of the South face, overhang to the ledge and to 1st K, up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Štěně
To the right of the prominent corner, overhanging wall via 1st and 2nd K to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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