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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Opomenutý masiv
Through the middle of the wall over the overhang to the crack (loop), then onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Opomenutý masiv
Along the left lower edge to the ledges and short overhanging corner (smack) n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5+
Opomenutý masiv
Through the middle of the wall over the overhang to the crack (loop), then onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay +1
4-
Opomenutý masiv
Voravo crack in the lower wall on the ledge (loops), traverse right and small wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Skřítek
In the S side, up the notch. Rock Climbing
2+
Skřítek
Up the S edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Poštolčí stěna
Up the W wall over a small overhang to a ledge to K. Up the cracks on the left near the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4-
Poštolčí stěna
Up the edge of the W pillar to the balcony, then up the crack. Rock Climbing
3
Poštolčí stěna
Up the corner chimney from the W. Rock Climbing
6-
Poštolčí stěna
Up the overhanging W wall past 1 K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Poštolčí stěna
On the right in the SW wall to a notch, then diagonally left under the overhang to K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Poštolčí stěna
On the left in the valley wall, through a hole to a ledge to K. Up the crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Poštolčí stěna
Through the center of the wall, through the hole to K. Up the wall over K of the 'Tea at… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Poštolčí stěna
In the W wall near the edge and up the crack to a shelf. Up the wall to the right near… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Poštolčí stěna
Up the right part of the wall over K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Poštolčí stěna
To the right of the center of the adjacent pillar in the SW wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Poštolčí stěna
The right chimney edge of the pillar. Rock Climbing
4-
Poštolčí stěna
In the right part of the SW wall, over a wedged boulder into the widening and then up the… Rock Climbing
5
Žlutá stěna
On the left side of the S wall, diagonally right to a ledge to a crack and up that. Rock Climbing
4+
Poštolčí stěna
Up the crack to its end to BH and up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Poštolčí stěna
Completely on the right, up the wall over K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Žlutá stěna
In the N face a step-over, after it onto the ledge and further along the face n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Žlutá stěna
Through the center of the S wall using cracks to a shelf and then up the chimney. Rock Climbing
5+
Žlutá stěna
From the boulder under the valley's face diagonally to the left to K. To the left by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Žlutá stěna
From the foreground by a step-over to BH and along the face over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Žlutá stěna
To the right in the N face by cracks to K. To the right by chimney onto the ledge and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Žlutá stěna
From the center of the valley's face diagonally to the right to the 1st K. To the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Žlutá stěna
South face diagonally to the left into the notch (K. Briefly to the left and along the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Žlutá stěna
Through the center of the valley's face by a crack to the end to the rib and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Žlutá stěna
SE edge directly to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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