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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Sáhib
Through the center of the north face via the crack to its end to K. To the right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sáhib
Along the right edge of the north face diagonally to the left to K. To the right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
5+
Sáhib
To the left of the NE edge upwards, then right behind the edge and into the hole to the K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sáhib
In the west face to the overhanging crack, through it and then via the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Cimbuří
By jumping from Sáhib n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Sáhib
By opposition between the block and the tower, then up the face diagonally into the notch. Rock Climbing
4-
Sáhib
From the large block on the south side into the shallow notch and through it diagonally… Rock Climbing
5+
Sáhib
Up the overhanging face to the left of the Stará cesta variant to K, up the face directly… Rock Climbing
4-
Cimbuří
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the overgrown foreshore. To the… Rock Climbing
5
Cimbuří
To the right of the Stará cesta route along a indistinct edge via fine cracks n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Cimbuří
By opposition to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Cimbuří
Jump from the marginal rock and n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Cimbuří
In the passage between the massif and the tower via a gentle face into the notch to K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Cimbuří
To the left of the Buď a nebo route in the north face directly over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Cimbuří
From the north over the large hourglasses to the left to K. Up the face to the summit of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Cimbuří
To the left of the Dřevorubecká cesta route via the crack to its end (K. Then straight up… Rock Climbing
2
Cimbuří
At the end of the rocky area completely to the left via the chimney to the overgrown… Rock Climbing
6-
Cimbuří
At the end of the rocky area through the center of the face difficultly into the recess… Rock Climbing
4+
Cimbuří
South face into the hole, higher to the clock and face directly into the summit chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Cimbuří
Via Solivá cesta into the hole, face diagonally to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Cimbuří
To the left of the Solivá cesta via the chimney, higher through the corner n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Cimbuří
From NE upwards into the hole. From it to the right upwards into the oblique notch,… Rock Climbing
4+
Cimbuří
From the rocky area directly overhanging into the notch and through it to K. Up the rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Cimbuří
In the west face into the hole and higher with a small chimney to K. Up the face and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Cimbuří
To the left of the Americké volno route into the hole and to the left to the 1st K. From… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Cimbuří
From the 1st K slightly from the right and directly to the 2nd K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Cimbuří
To the right of the route 'American Freedom' via the edge over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Cimbuří
In the S wall via the crack to its end and to the left to the ring. Via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Cimbuří
To the right of the W edge via the wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Cimbuří
In the S wall via the chimney into the large hole (below it is the ring). Via the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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