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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Hladká věž
Downhill wall over the ring to the ring of the Old Route and follow that to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hladká věž
In the left part of the Downhill wall, 4 bolts n. v. (not verified). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hladká věž
Northeast edge over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hladká věž
Chimney between the tower and the massif, then up the wall to the ring, (liebacking) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hladká věž
Southwest edge to the 'clock' feature and left to the ring. Crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Přední věž
Old route to the platform, traverse right to the second crack. Follow the crack to its… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Přední věž
Northeast overhanging wall over 3K and right overhanging edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Přední věž
From the ledge on the NE edge right to the rocky outcrop to the ring. Right behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Přední věž
Right SE wall right into the crack and that, higher left wall into the crack of the SE… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Přední věž
About 2 m left of the 1st var. SE route wall (under rappelling) to the ring and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Přední věž
From the start of the Bonifikace route, wall straight up (crossing the valley route) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Přední věž
From the added bolt on the right, wall over the overhang and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Přední věž
Old route to the platform and traverse left to the ring. From the ring diagonally left … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Přední věž
Right part of the west face, wall diagonally left to the ring of the valley route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Přední věž
South edge to the platform, from the right over the overhang and edge to the niche … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Punťa
Upland edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Punťa
From the upland side left and through the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Punťa
With overhanging edge to the ring. Edge to the clocks and left wall to the summit. (A… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Mamutí věž
Left of "Sand Road" through the hole to the footbridge and straight to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Punťa
Southwest face and left to the ring. Edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Mamutí věž
On the right in the E face on steps diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Punťa
From the boulder on the arched (S) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mamutí věž
At the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mamutí věž
Through the center of the west face to the ring, higher slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Mamutí věž
Wall over the clock and ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6+/7-
Mamutí věž
Northwest edge over 2 rings, higher right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Dětská věž
In the narrow East face, up the wall via a ring to the summit of the West Tower. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Dětská věž
Up the North edge via 2 rings to the summit of the East Tower. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž mládí
To the right of the route "Southeast Face", up the second sloping crack to a small ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž mládí
To the left of the variant of the Old Route, up the chimney directly over the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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