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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Malé žluté cimbuří
To the left of the chimney on the South face, from the niche to the crack. Climb the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velké žluté cimbuří
From the NW over the overhang and the corner to the ring. Up the wall to the crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velké žluté cimbuří
Via the rib on the right side of the South wall over the overhang to the ring and … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velké žluté cimbuří
Up the wall left of the Southern Route below the subtle rib, chimneying up into the niche… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Velké žluté cimbuří
In the center of the South wall, up the rib to the ledge. Traverse left into the crack,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velké žluté cimbuří
Up the West wall (1st ring) to the crack and up it to the 2nd ring. Higher up diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velké žluté cimbuří
Up the crack near the East edge into the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hezoun
Up the curved South edge over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hezoun
Up the SW edge, then higher up, left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hezoun
From the NW, over the overhang onto the platform, and then up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hezoun
Like the "Old Route" to the niche, then traverse 5m to the right and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hezoun
Up the NW wall, passing the ring, to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2
Lucinka
Up the left plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Akademická věž
Up the right edge over a ring to a ledge (sling) and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Akademická věž
Up the left downhill edge over 2K to a ledge Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Velikonoční věž
By a chimney climb between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velikonoční věž
Across the SE face to the left to the crack, follow it to the platform and the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Velikonoční věž
By a jump from the massif. Rock Climbing
6-
Velikonoční věž
From the saddle directly to the ring, right onto the edge and follow it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Velikonoční věž
Along the SW edge, higher up to the left along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velikonoční věž
Across the West face diagonally to the edge (ring) and follow it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velikonoční věž
Through the center of the West face (ring), higher up along the blunt edge directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Pidlík
Follow the left uphill edge to the exit of the "Host do domu" route and follow it to the… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4+
Pidlík
From the valley, follow the edge to the right, passing a ring, to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
6+/7-
Pidlík
From the uphill side, to the left of the chimney, climb the wall with difficulty to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Kamzičí hrad
Through the center of the east wall, passing 3K and the clock above. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Zuzanka
From the balcony diagonally left (under the ring) to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zuzanka
Through the center of the upland wall directly to the balcony, then directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zuzanka
On the right in the E wall to the balcony. On the right beyond the edge and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zuzanka
From the upland side traverse right to the balcony in the valley wall and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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