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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Korzár
With the edge directly to K of the route "Favorable Wind". To the right, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Pinta
To the right of the "Šok" route, up the wall past 3 BH and further right along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Pinta
Like "Gulf Stream" to the balcony. Left up the wall (K) and via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Pinta
In the valley wall, up a sharp edge directly past 2 BH and further up the wall past 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Pinta
From S, up the wall along the crack to the balcony. To the right up the wall beyond the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Pinta
In the valley part of the wall to the left of the Šok route, via a recess and up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Kýl
To the right of the SW edge from the start of Ivan's joust, up an overhanging wall along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kýl
In the valley wall by corner to a pillar. Right up the wall to the edge and by it to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kýl
To the right of the Pravobok route, directly to the summit via a corner. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kýl
Up the right valley edge over 2 K directly to the K of the Pravobok route and together… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Kýl
Up the wall over a pillar (BH) along the edge to K. From the right up the wall to 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Kýl
Left of "Wine Festival" from the fore-rock (BH) up the wall over 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kýl
As per the "Sokolíkové žebro" (Falcon's Rib) several meters up and right up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Zeď
Left of the "Pustá místa" route by corner to BH and left up the wall, ribs and higher by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Zeď
In the right part of the wall behind a block, by chimney in a corner to a balcony. By… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Zeď
Up the wall along the right valley edge over the pulpit to the balcony. Left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9+
Zeď
As "Tropicando" to 2nd K and right up the wall over 4 K, higher right to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Zeď
Approx. 4m right of the "Foundation Stone" route from the fore-rock (access via chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Zeď
From 2nd K up the overhanging wall over BH directly to 3rd K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Zeď
Up the wall right of the start of the "Sun Deck" route over 2 BH to a ledge. About 5m… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Zeď
Up the center of the wall over 3 K to a crack. Via the crack, higher right via a chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Zeď
From the corner in the middle of the wall left over 2 BH to a ledge in the left part of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Zeď
In the left part of the wall over ledges (BH) under an overhang to 1st K. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Zeď
The start is the same as "Sun Deck". Up the laid-back wall over 3 BH to a ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Zeď
By a prominent corner in the left part of the wall to a ledge and right via a crack,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Panděro
Up the wall along the right edge of the massif to the birches and up the wall left of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Panděro
As "Zvěrokruh" to the birches and left up the wall to 1st K. Up the wall directly to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Zeď
As "Cold Crack" by corner into the cave. Up the wall to the sub-summit balcony. Right via… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Panděro
In the left part of the wall from the fore-rock via a slab diagonally right (3 BH), we… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Panděro
As per the route "Advertisement for Misery" but directly between 2nd and 3rd K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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