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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Rudolfův kámen
On the W side, up a crack with an overhanging start to the balcony. Further up the gully,… Rock Climbing
5+
Rudolfův kámen
Up the SW face over two holes to a ledge. From there, up the overhanging wall past K to a… Rock Climbing
6
Rudolfův kámen
From the start of the "Western Route", traverse left around the NW edge into the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rudolfův kámen
To the left in the upper wall of the W tower, up the wall for about 5m and traverse left… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rudolfův kámen
To the right of the "Elbe Route", up the overhanging crack to K. Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rudolfův kámen
From the 2nd K, traverse left and up the middle crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rudolfův kámen
From the 1st ring of the "Elbe Route", straight up the face over 2 more rings and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rudolfův kámen
To the right in the valley wall, straight up past the 1st K to the 1st K of the "Valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rudolfův kámen
Start a few meters right of the "Waldrauscher route". Up the wall into a hole and from… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rudolfův kámen
Right of the Waldrauscher route, directly up the wall over 5 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rudolfův kámen
Up the chimney in the valley wall for about 20m, then diagonally right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Rudolfův kámen
Completely left in the valley wall of the E tower via a crack to the ledge. Along the rib… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rudolfův kámen
Through the corner of the Valley Route or about 4 m left of the corner through a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Rudolf Jelínek
Through the crack in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Kleopatra
From Caesar's summit by a jump to the pulpit in the S wall. Along the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kleopatra
From the pre-summit, climb through a hole into the N wall and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kleopatra
Right on the plateau side through a chimney to the ledge, diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Kleopatra
From the saddle to the right via a small crack to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kleopatra
From the saddle, descend to the right and through a narrow chimney over an overhang to… Rock Climbing
4-
Kleopatra
Like the "Plateau Route" to the projection, traverse right beyond the edge, along a small… Rock Climbing
3
Kleopatra
From W through an overgrown crack and a hollow into the corner of the "Butcher's Saturday… Rock Climbing
4+
Kleopatra
Through the corner in the valley wall under the overhang, then right through the corner… Rock Climbing
2+
Kleopatra
From W to the saddle, along the edge to the pre-summit and along the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kleopatra
Right of the "German Route" along the ledge to the left and along the wall to K. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Kleopatra
Through the center of the E wall over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kleopatra
Left of the "German Route" along the wall to K. From the left along the wall to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kleopatra
To the right in the S wall, diagonally right along the wall to the edge to K. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kleopatra
Through a crack in the valley wall under the overhang, traverse left into the gully and… Rock Climbing
4+
Kleopatra
To the right in the E wall, via a crack to the balcony. Along the short wall, then a… Rock Climbing
2+
César
From the summit of Cleopatra, descend a few meters to a ledge on the S face and jump to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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