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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Mizantrop
On the south side from the gully, up the wall, initially along a narrow crack, slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kasíno
In the corner to the left of Houpačka (The Swing), up the corner and hand crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Mizantrop
To the left of the 'Barking of Women' route on the slope, up a prominent edge over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kasíno
On the main massif of the Casino, entirely to the upper right, up the wall over 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kasíno
Up the left wall of the edge over 5 bolts to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kasíno
To the left of the edge over 4 bolts to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kasíno
Up the corner to the left of Houpačka (The Swing) and higher up the wall over 3 bolts to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kasíno
In the valley wall, up the crack in the corner (K) to the end. Higher up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Kasíno
Up the left edge of the right pillar directly over 4 bolts, finally slightly right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kasíno
Up the center of the wall over 4 bolts to the summit. (to the left is the rappel of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kasíno
To the left of the Baccarat route, up the wall over 6 bolts to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Jednoruký bandita
From the 3rd bolt of Gambling Games diagonally right over 3 bolts to the rappelling bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Jednoruký bandita
From the 3rd bolt of the Kraftclub route left over the overhang 4th bolt and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Jednoruký bandita
Up the wall to a small fore-rock. To the right of the prominent valley corner, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Jednoruký bandita
From the forepeak, from the prominent valley corner to the left, up the wall over 6 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Planeta Země
From the 1st BH of Friday for Future, up the wall diagonally right over 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Planeta Země
From the 5th BH of the We love Greta route, diagonally left along the notch (3 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Planeta Země
From the ledge, left part of the wall and edge over 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Louis de Funés
Right of Fantomas, overhanging wall over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Louis de Funés
Completely left up the wall and crack over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Protěžová věž
From the 1st K of "Laura" up the wall over 8 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Louis de Funés
Right of Stehýnka. Overhanging wall over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Protěžová věž
In the N wall along the crack to the 1st K. Diagonally left to the 2nd K and 3rd K. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Protěžová věž
By the route "For Whites Only" to the 3rd K of "Laura", along that to the 4th K. Right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Protěžová věž
Left in the valley wall, up the wall and over the overhang, over 4 BH, into the "Valley… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Protěžová věž
From the 1st BH of the route "For Whites Only" directly over BH to the 2nd K of the Laura… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Protěžová věž
Left of the start of the Laura route, up the wall over 3 BH to the 3rd K of "Laura".… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Protěžová věž
In the right part of the S wall over 4 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Protěžová věž
In the right part of the S wall, diagonally right to the 1st K. Through a notch and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Protěžová věž
In the left part of the S wall, diagonally right to the 1st K and up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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