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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Kazatelna
Right of the "Valley Crack", over 5 K to the terrace. By the "Valley Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kazatelna
Continue upwards via GMS and through an overhanging indentation (BH) into a small crack.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Kazatelna
Up the corner in the middle of the valley wall below the overhang and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Kazatelna
Left of the 'Walk' route, up the wall, past 6 BH to the rappel BH, then further up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kazatelna
To the right in the valley wall, over 3 K to a balcony on the S side. Diagonally left and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Kazatelna
In the NE wall, along the blunt edge, past 2 K and up the wall below the overhang. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Kazatelna
Up the center of the S wall to below the overhang (K), slightly right (2nd K), and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Kazatelna
From the 2nd K of "Walk", up the overhanging wall diagonally right, past 2 K and 4 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Kazatelna
From the 1st K of the "Total Brutal" route, directly over a K to the K of the "Purgatory"… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Kazatelna
From the 1st BH of the "Purgatory" route, traverse left along the edge, past 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Kazatelna
Up the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Kazatelna
From the upper edge, up the wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Kazatelna
In the N wall, up the chimney along the right edge (K), from the right and back into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Zpovědnice
Right of the 'Heavenly Spy' route, up the small corner and along the edge, past 8 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Zpovědnice
In the right part of the massif, up the slabby wall, past 4 BH and then the 'sokolík' … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Zpovědnice
Left of 'Confessional Secret', up the wall, over a small overhang and higher up over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zpovědnice
Like the 'Heavenly Spy' route, but only to the 7th BH (it's a rappel anchor). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Zpovědnice
In the far left corner, up the dihedral, past 7 BH to the ledge to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Sluneční terasa
Left of the 'Sun Terrace' edge. Up the wall, past 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Sluneční terasa
Up the hand-jam crack between 'Solarium' and 'Sommer'.. past a BH further to the 4th BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Sluneční terasa
Left of the 'Iron Maiden' route, up the edge and wall, past 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Sluneční terasa
Right of the lowest point of the sector, up the overhanging iron-stained wall, past 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Sluneční terasa
Up the wall above the overhanging wall, past 5 BH to the rappel BH of the 'Sunny Side of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Sluneční terasa
Left of the 'Sunny Times' route, up the wall, past 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Sluneční terasa
Left above the ledge (BH station). Up the wall, past 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Jehelníček
In the valley wall, left of the corner, up the wall and via the small chimney along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Jehelníček
From the 3rd BH of the route "Bulletin Board", from the right over small overhangs and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Jehelníček
On the valley side, to the right of the corner, along the edge (3 BH), then a few meters… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Žlebská jehla
Start in the right part of the NE wall. Diagonally left over the overhang to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Žlebská jehla
From the ring of the route "Catch the Sky", up the NE wall slightly to the right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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