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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Kobra
In the left part of the lower tower wall, along the ledge to the left, briefly up under a… Rock Climbing
6-
Kobra
To the left of "Corner Crack" left into a small crack and along it to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kobra
To the left of "Antidote", via the crack and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kobra
To the right in the valley W wall, up the winding crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Kobra
In the valley wall from the right over the overhang to the bolt hanger, slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Kobra
Briefly in the corner like the Valley Way and up the wall to the right over 3 bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kobra
To the right in the valley wall, traverse between the boulder to the corner. Through it… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kobra
From the path on the NW (valley) side of the tower, to the right of the Right Chimney, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Kobra
From the lowest point of the path on the NW side of the tower, initially up a slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kobra
From the path in the valley wall, which leads to the Forgotten Tower, up the left chimney… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kobra
To the right of the Snake Legs path, up the wall along the rib to a ledge and up the slab… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kobra
From the path in the valley wall, which leads to the Forgotten Tower, up the right… Rock Climbing
4+
Pašerácká stěna
From the path leading to the Forgotten Tower, up the center of the valley wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Pašerácká stěna
Through the crack to the right of the "Treasure Hunt Path" to the ring. Traverse into the… Rock Climbing
6
Pašerácká stěna
From the ring of the path "For the Treasure" diagonally left along the overhanging edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pašerácká stěna
In the middle of the massif, up the wall over 3 rings to a large ledge (large hourglasses… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pašerácká stěna
Via crack to the right of the "Border Line" route to the ring, via the wall into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Italská stěna
In the right part of the valley wall on a prominent pillar over 3 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Pašerácká stěna
2.5 m to the right of the route "Tunnel Named Time" directly via the wall over 2 BH into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pašerácká stěna
In the left part of the massif to the right via a receding gully and chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Italská stěna
In the middle part of the wall to the left via the wall over 8 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Italská stěna
To the right pillar left of the Easy Jet route (photo). Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Italská stěna
In the middle part of the wall from the ledge to the right of the Rock Master route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Italská stěna
In the middle part of the wall from the ledge through the center of the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Italská stěna
In the left part of the wall through the center of the pillar via the wall over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Myš
On the right side of the valley there is a short overhang and friction to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Zapomenutá věž
About 7m to the right of the start of the "Old Route" via intermittent crack, higher up… Rock Climbing
3
Zapomenutá věž
In the middle of the plateau wall via chimney, then via wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Zapomenutá věž
Either via chimney from NE or from S along the ledge in the massif to the saddle. From… Rock Climbing
3
Zapomenutá věž
Via the corner between Partyzán (Partisan) and the tower to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing

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