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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Věž Jílového potoka
Through the center of the SE face via a hole and a small rib to a ledge, traverse 2m left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4+
Věž Jílového potoka
To the right of the SE edge, via a broken crack to the forepeak and as the "East Route"… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Věž Jílového potoka
Left in the valley wall, through a hollow diagonally right via BH to the 2nd BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Věž Jílového potoka
To the right in the E wall, via a smooth wall under the overhang and left via a crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
6-
Věž Jílového potoka
From the rock near the SE edge, traverse to the ledge, then right and as "Humus of the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věž Jílového potoka
From the start of the Palmex route, directly via the overhanging wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Věž Jílového potoka
To the right of "Palmex" directly via 3 BH to the 2nd BH of "Palmex". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Věž Jílového potoka
To the left of the route "Genocide of Strahov Squirrels" up the wall via 3 BH to rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Věž Jílového potoka
Right in the valley wall via 4 BH to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Věž Jílového potoka
To the left of the "West Chimney" up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Věž Jílového potoka
Completely in the right part of the massif, via the overhanging wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2+
Věž Jílového potoka
From the plateau side, left into the valley wall and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Biváček
Center of the overhanging wall via 2 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Věž Jílového potoka
Left in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
9/9+
Biváček
Right part of the wall via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Biváček
Left part of the overhanging wall via 2 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Brusinková věž
To the right of the NE edge via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Brusinková věž
To the right of the Verči den route, up the wall via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Brusinková věž
To the right of the Minuteman route, up the wall via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Brusinková věž
Up the center of the valley (S) wall via 2 BH (from the 1st BH slightly to the right) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Brusinková věž
To the left of Minutenman, up the valley wall via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Brusinková věž
In the left part of the valley wall by the crack, 2 BH to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Brusinková věž
From the W traverse left into the chimney in the N face and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Brusinková věž
From the hole on the SW corner upwards over the overhang and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Brusinková věž
Via the chimney in the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Brusinková věž
Through the left part of the S wall diagonally left. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Brusinková věž
Through the center of the S wall over the overhang and up the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Brusinková věž
Via the notch and chimney in the S wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Brusinková věž
In the E wall via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Brusinková věž
Over the overhang from the left to the SE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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