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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Filuta
Up the center of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Filuta
To the right of the E edge, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Filuta
Left of the route "Fikanej durštic" up a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Filuta
Plateau sides via a rise and a slabby wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Filuta
Right plateau (E) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Gargamel
From SE over the overhang into the gully, through it and up the sloping wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
3
Gargamel
Left of the overhang of the South Route, up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Gargamel
From the block on the N side diagonally left via an overhanging wall to the 1st BH. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Gargamel
From W to a overgrown ledge, diagonally left up the wall along the depression (K), higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Gargamel
From S along the edge to the foresummit, descend and right up the sloping wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Gargamel
Right of the Smurf World route, up the wall to the ledge (K above it) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Mariáš
Left edge (hour) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Mariáš
Right up the wall to K and left or right (VIIc) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Mariáš
Up the center of the wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Mariáš
In the left part of the wall (K) above sea level. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Mariáš
Left of the path "Green Seven" along the edge and a small wall (possibility to use BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Mariáš
In the right part of the valley (E) wall via 2 BH to the abseiling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Mariáš
Up the center of the valley wall along the crack and higher up the wall to the abseiling… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Mariáš
In the left part of the valley wall via BH and diagonally right to the abseiling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Íšek
SE wall via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Íšek
SE couloir and edge via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Íšek
NW wall to BH and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Íšek
On the left in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Sicilská stěna
In the very right part of the wall, up the slab wall (3 BH) and further left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Qac
To the left of the "Up the stairs..." route, along the edge via BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6+/7-
Sicilská stěna
From the 3rd BH of the "Mafia Men" route, directly up the pyritic wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Qac
To the left in the North face, through the corner via BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7+/8-
Sicilská stěna
To the right of the "Mafia" route, along the blunt edge and higher up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Sicilská stěna
In the right part of the wall, over 3 rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Sicilská stěna
To the right of the "Vendetta" route, over BH and 3 rings to the ledge (BH). Continue up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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