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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Smolař
From the 4th K of the route "Backlash" directly up the smooth wall to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Smolař
Along the SE edge directly to the 1st K, then along the blunt edge to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Smolař
Left of the corner along the rounded edge over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Smolař
In the corner via a double crack to the 5th BH of the route "Temporary Amnesia". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Smolař
Right of the route "That was a stroke of luck", via the wall over 4 BH to the 5th BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Smolař
Left of Otec in the corner several meters up and traverse right to the edge. Along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Smolař
Between "Mr. Forester's Route" and "Temporary Amnesia", diagonally left up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Smolař
From the 1st BH of the route "Friday the Thirteenth", right via the wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Smolař
Start left of "Mr. Forester's Route" via a broken corner and crack over an overhang, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Smolař
In the South face, via the left edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Smolař
Via the right crack and wall (BH) to the summit to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Klikař
Via the center of the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Klikař
Completely on the right of the massif, via the wall and edge, over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Smolař
Completely on the left in the South face, briefly via the chimney, higher up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Klikař
In the right part of the wall, via a crack and a small wall, over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Postýlka
Through the crack in the right part of the E wall over the overhang to its end and a step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Klikař
Via the left edge over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Postýlka
Along the edge in the middle of the wall to the ledge, then the wall over 2 BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Klikař
Via the left part of the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Postýlka
Through the chimney between Panenka and Postýlka briefly upwards and then via the blunt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Postýlka
To the right of the route "Vřesoviště" (Heatherland) from the terrace along the prominent… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Postýlka
About 3 m to the right of the edge, climb the wall over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Postýlka
Via the SE edge over 4 BH to the balcony to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Panenka
From the gorge to the right and up the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Panenka
On the E wall into the notch and via that to the balcony. Climb the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Panenka
Via the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Postýlka
To the left of the route "Sweetly Sleep" via the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Planeta
Left edge of the massif 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Krkavec
From the large block on the plateau side, traverse right behind the edge into the crack. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Krkavec
From the plateau side via the sharp edge directly over 2BH to the 2nd ring of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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