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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Krkavec
From the large block on the plateau side by double stacking into a short crack, along it… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Krkavec
From the block, briefly over the overhanging NE edge, higher up left via a ledge and an… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Krkavec
From the 1st K of the route "Partly Cloudy" directly over the overhang and up the wall (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Krkavec
To the right in the S wall from the block, up the wall to the right to the 1st K. Briefly… Rock Climbing
6-
Krkavec
To the left in the S wall from the block (standing) to K. Up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Krkavec
Via the "South Route" without building (or without artificial aid/aid climbing) to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Krkavec
To the left in the S wall onto a ledge and briefly left onto the SW edge. First up the… Rock Climbing
5
Krkavec
Via the "Old Route" to the first balcony, (standing) under the overhang and through a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Krkavec
To the right in the NW wall along the rib, higher up directly up the NW wall over K to… Rock Climbing
4+
Krkavec
Via the chimney at the NE edge to the balcony, traverse right and up a small wall into a… Rock Climbing
5
Krkavec
Through the middle of the valley wall under the overhang, left onto the edge and through… Rock Climbing
6
Čtverec
At the right edge, via the chimney to the ledge and along the edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Panťáček
Up the narrow NW wall over 3 BH, higher up left into a hollow to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6+/7-
Čtverec
Approach about 8m to the right of the left valley edge. Up the wall, then diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Čtverec
Through the middle of the wall over 3 K to the 3rd K of the route "Searching for Truth"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Čtverec
About 8m to the left of the right edge, up the wall over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Čtverec
From the start of the route "Open Criticism", traverse left to the 1st K of the route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Čtverec
To the left of the blunt valley edge, 3m up the wall and right into the chimney. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Čtverec
As "Equatorial Edge" to the 1st K. Diagonally right up the wall to the 2nd K and straight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
9+
Mudrc
To the right of the "Rašení jara" (Spring Budding) route, via an overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
6+/7-
Tři sestry
To the right of the Frýdlantská to Poseidon route, up the wall via 5 bolts (BH) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Tři sestry
From the 1st bolt (BH) of the Synové výčepu route, via the edge over 3 bolts (BH) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Tři sestry
To the left of Synové výčepu, via the largest overhang, up the wall and gully/chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Tři sestry
In the valley wall, from 1 bolt (BH) to the left and further up the center of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Netopýr
Via the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Netopýr
In the center of the valley wall, via a crack and fissure to the ring (K). Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Netopýr
As "Path of Blind Birds", via a crack to the end, traverse left, and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Netopýr
From the fore-rock under the NW wall to the right, via the West edge to the 1st ring (K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Netopýr
From the watchpoint, up the wall directly over the ring (K) under the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Netopýr
Up the plateau wall via 3 bolts (BH) and rappel. Bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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