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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Klárka
To the left of the route 'Clear as a Slap' up the wall (12BH) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Klárka
To the left of the Summer Contemplation route, along the edge over 5 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kamzičí hrot
Along the valley edge over 2 K to the balcony. About 3m like "Matematická cesta",… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Kamzičí hrot
From the K of Matematická cesta directly to the next K, higher up the smooth wall from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Jezevec
From the valley edge along cracks and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Jezevec
Up the chimney in the center of the West face below the overhang, over it left via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Jezevec
Up the overhanging valley edge to a ledge, left into a crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jezevec
To the right of the Kousanec (Bite) route via a corner and crack to a large balcony. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tři palice
In the right part of the wall via a crack over 2 K and right onto the balcony. Continue… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Jezevec
From the valley to the left into the "Bite" route via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Tři palice
To the left of the "Paličatá" (Stubborn) route along the edge and wall via 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Jezevec
Via a short high wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Tři palice
To the left of the Wickie a vikingové (Wickie and the Vikings) route up the wall via 3 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Tři palice
In the central part of the valley (North) face, directly below the chimney, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tři palice
To the right of the Solidní nejistota (Solid Uncertainty) route along the right edge via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Tři palice
To the left of the Solidní nejistota (Solid Uncertainty) route up the wall via 3 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Tři palice
To the right of the "Nadoraz" (To the Limit) route via an overhanging narrow wall (4 BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Tři palice
Up the left pillar on the East side diagonally right to the BH and left via the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Tři palice
Up the East wall via 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Tři palice
Up the NE edge via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Tři palice
On the left pillar along the left edge via 3 BH into the crack of the "Na Doraz" (To the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Jánošík
In the right part of the South face via a crack and up the wall directly, at the top… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Jánošík
From the start of the "Old Route" traverse right to the SE edge to K. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jánošík
To the right in the E wall, from the boulder, up the wall diagonally right to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Jánošík
From the start of "Iron Butterfly" up the wall via 3 K to the 2nd K of the "Iron… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Jánošík
From the 1st BH of Vyhlídkový let (Sightseeing Flight) left along the edge via 2 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Jánošík
To the left of the "Red Crack" up the wall via 3 BH (from the 1st BH on the left) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Jánošík
(By building) into the crack in the East face and along it to its end. Left and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Jánošík
Briefly up the valley chimney and then right up the wall over 2 bolts to the 3rd bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Jánošík
To the left of the "Valley Chimney" up the wall over 2 bolts to the 1st bolt of the route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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