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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9/9+
Jeptiška
Via the route "Valley Wall" over 6 rings to the right onto a ledge and further like … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Jeptiška
From the 3rd BH of "Unwavering Abbess" from the left edge over BH to its 6th BH and via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Jeptiška
Right of the route "Valley Wall" over 3 BH to the balcony (BH), via the wall right of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Jeptiška
Via the chimney in the S face to the platform (belay K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Jeptiška
Center of the pillar via BH to the 1st BH of the route "Last Temptation" and via it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Jeptiška
Center of the north face via a blunt edge (4 BH) to the platform (BH). Via the route … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Jeptiška
From the fore-rock in the S face, left via a wall and crack to the 1st BH. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Jeptiška
Left in the S face via a crack and wall to the platform and chimney to the false summit … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Jeptiška
Any route to the false summit (belay K). Descend about 3m into the S face and then via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Jeptiška
From the chimney in the S face traverse left to the 1st BH, up over 2 BH to the 3rd BH of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Jeptiška
S face via 4 BH, then any route to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Jeptiška
In the left part of the S wall through a crack between the tower and the pre-summit to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Jeptiška
From the saddle via a short wall to a large platform and then a crack to the false summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jeptiška
Left of the "Old Route" via a chimney that narrows into a crack, to the false summit … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Kominická stěna
To the right of the Kominické Štětky route, from the rock over 3 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kominická stěna
From the 1st BH of the "Desetbéčko" route diagonally left through the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Kominická stěna
To the right of "Northern Crack" over 3 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Kominická stěna
Through the crack in the S wall to the summit to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kominická stěna
Through the middle of the S wall and to the right over 3 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Kominická stěna
At the right lower edge through a crack to the pulpit and along the edge over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kominická stěna
Approach through the chimney to the block and further through the corner (left 2 BH of an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10-/10
Kominická stěna
From the crack of the Opušťák route to the right to the 1st BH. Along the blunt edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Kominická stěna
In the left part of the S wall along cracks over 5 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Kominická stěna
Start 4m to the right of "Sazínka". Via a chimney to the pulpit and through the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Kominická stěna
In the lower wall along the crack to the 1st K. Further through the wall to the 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Kominická stěna
From the 1st BH of Merry Summer, along the edge left over 3 BH to the 4th BH of Merry… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Kominická stěna
Via the "Opušťák" route to the block. Along the blunt, later sharp edge over 6 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kominická stěna
Through the wall to the left of the left lower edge and further along the edge over 6 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Kominická stěna
To the left of the "Professor Baltazar" route, through the wall over 10 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kominická stěna
To the right of the "Bukate route", through the wall over a small overhang and then the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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