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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Jánošík
Briefly through the "Valley Chimney" and to the left up the wall over 4 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Jánošík
In the valley wall, through the chimney that narrows into a crack, to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Jánošík
From the 3rd bolt of the route "Quarter of Red Lanterns", up the wall from the right over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Jánošík
To the right of the "Valley Chimney" via a crack to the 1st K. Diagonally right and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Jánošík
From the 2nd K (by standing) and up the wall diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Jánošík
Over 2 K to the 2nd K of the "Valley Wall" and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Jánošík
From the 1st bolt of the route "War with the Newts", up the wall to the right and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Jánošík
Through the middle of the west wall over 4 bolts directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Jánošík
From the right (by standing) to the W edge and along it to K. Up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Jánošík
From the upper side traverse left and through the middle of the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Jánošík
Approximately 3m to the left of the "Old Route" high up. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Jánošík
Through the chimney in the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Prašivá věž
Up the wall below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Prašivá věž
Up the right upper SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Prašivá věž
Through the middle of the valley wall via a crack over K to a ledge and traverse left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Prašivá věž
In the narrow E wall over the overhang and through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Prašivá věž
Left behind the edge of the valley wall through a hole to a small balcony to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Prašivá věž
Like the "Old Route" to the start of the ledge and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Prašivá věž
Right in the valley wall over 2 BH to the 2nd K of "Purification". Via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Prašivá věž
From the center of the plateau wall along a ledge left above the overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Nebeská vyhlídka
Via the Valley Edge (3 BH) to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Prašivá věž
From the 1st K of the "Crazy Variant" to the right and up the wall over 2 K to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Nebeská vyhlídka
Like the route "Spinach Eyes" to the 1st BH and directly via a small rib over the 2nd BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Nebeská vyhlídka
Right in the S face to BH, right to the edge and via it over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Jeptiška
Via the crack of the "South Route" several meters upwards, higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Jeptiška
From the overgrown ledge up the center of the wall over 6 K, higher up as "Valley Edge". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Jeptiška
Right of the "Old Route" via a crack to the overhang and traverse right to the 1st K. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jeptiška
From the overhang via a crack and wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8/8+
Jeptiška
Along the SE edge over 6 K and 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Jeptiška
Via the North Route to the 1st balcony and left via the wall along the crack (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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