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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Kominická stěna
Right on the lower right pillar, corners over 2 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Kominická stěna
To the right of Bukate, through the wall over 5 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Kominická stěna
To the right of the Analog route, briefly along the edge and traverse right under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kominická stěna
About 8 m to the left of Bukate. From the chimney and right along the edge over the BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Kominická stěna
To the right of the corner along the edge over 5 K and the slab to the rappelling K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Kominická stěna
Via the corner to the left of the Analog route to the first BH of the Životoč (Life Cycle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Kominická stěna
Up the wall to the left of the "Das ist super" route over 3 BHs to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kominická stěna
Along the small crack to the left of the right edge to the ledge and a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Kominická stěna
Via the corner between the left wall and the central pillar for about 5 m (BH) and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Kominická stěna
From the right along the edge over 3 BHs to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kominická stěna
To the left of the "Fulfillment of Wishes" route, up the wall to the crack and through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Dědské hřiště
To the right of the chimney, up the blunt edge of the right wall over BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Dědské hřiště
Via the chimney between the middle and right wall to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Dědské hřiště
Up the right part of the right wall to the balcony and up the wall over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Dědské hřiště
Up the center of the left wall over K, BH, and 2nd K to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Dědské hřiště
Up the right edge of the left wall over BH and K to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Dědské hřiště
Up the center of the middle small wall to BH and right up the wall over the 2nd BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Dědské hřiště
Up the right part of the left wall over 2 BHs to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Klip – klap
To the left of the left valley edge, via the corner and wall over K, further to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Klip – klap
To the left of the "Lion's Share" route over 5 BHs to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Orloj
Up the center of the right S wall over 4 BHs to the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Klip – klap
At the base of the valley wall, via the shallow crack/groove and wall over 3 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Orloj
Via the iron-stained small wall to the left of the "Samá voda" (Only Water) route over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Orloj
To the right on the slope from the North Face route, up a small wall over BH to a ledge … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Orloj
From S, up the small wall to the ledge (sling in the hole). Traverse down left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Orloj
To the right from the valley along the shallow cracks/grooves and up the wall over 2 BHs… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Orloj
In the valley wall, to the right of the Caterpillar route, via a prominent edge over 3 K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Orloj
In the right part of the valley wall over 4 K to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Orloj
From V, via the corner crack and higher up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Orloj
Start in the S wall via a 3m crack, then right to the 1st piton. Right up the wall over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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