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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Orloj
Up the crack in the middle of the S wall over the 1st bolt to the end at the 2nd bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Orloj
Start from the fore-summit at the SW edge and traverse right past the edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
7+/8-
Orloj
Via the Time Machine route over 4 K's to the ledge (above it the 5th K). Briefly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Orloj
Via the "Caterpillar" route for about 7 meters. Left up the wall and along the edge over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Orloj
From the west in the corner from the fore-summit, up the right overhanging small wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Orloj
From the fore-summit on the SW edge over a bolt and 2 pitons up the wall under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Orloj
From the South, from the gully, up a 15m chimney into a horizontal notch and traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Orloj
Completely on the left in the S wall via a prominent corner over 2 bolts to a piton. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Orloj
In the left part of the South wall, start from the block up a small wall (bolt) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Slamák
About 2.5 m to the left of the valley edge, up the wall and right along the edge over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Orloj
Completely on the left in the S wall. Up the wall along the prominent edge over 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Slamák
NW wall over 2 pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Slamák
To the left of the 'Fragile Life' route, up the gully and wall to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Slamák
From the NW wall, start left into the crack and up it to the summit. (SM) Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Slamák
Middle of the S wall under the overhang (piton), over it and up the wall (2nd piton) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Plavčík
Approach as for "SW Pillar Variant". From the 1st K directly to the 2nd K. From there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Admirál
Completely to the right in the southern part of the massif via a structured pillar (8 BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Admirál
Together with the 'Panelstory' route to the 2nd BH. Above it, diagonally right up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Admirál
Up the right edge of Admiral over 7 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Admirál
Up the south wall over 8 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Admirál
In the South wall to the right of the 'Solar Panel' route, up the wall over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Admirál
To the right of the right valley edge up the wall over 6 K to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Admirál
About 3m from the right valley edge across the wall over 9 K, then from the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
9/9+
Admirál
About 6 m to the left of the 'Aunt Hela' route from the balcony (from the dry stump) up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Admirál
Approach left via a receding crack (behind a large beech tree) to the crack (K). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Admirál
To the left of "Aunt Hela" up the wall (crossing a crack) over 7 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Admirál
Up the wall in the line of the crack to K and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Admirál
Approach left of the 'Aunt Hela Variant' route, directly behind a large beech tree with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Admirál
To the right of the 'Tatranský pozdrav' route, along indistinct cracks to K. Directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Admirál
Up the crack (hour-glass) to its end to K. Up the wall into the cracks, through them to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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