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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Katedrála
To the left of the "Right Edge" route, up the wall (9 BH) to the 2nd bolt of the "Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Katedrála
Up the right edge over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Katedrála
Start on the edge to the right of the "Maze" route. Diagonally right up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Katedrála
To the right of the "Loss of Immunity" route, up the crack to the ledge to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing
6
Katedrála
To the left (3.0m) of the Sagrada Familia route over 10 bolts to the Sagrada Familia… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Katedrála
To the right of the "With a Clear Mind" route, up the wall (3BH) and left crosses the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Katedrála
Via the "Pious Wish" route to the 1st bolt. Left up the wall to the 2nd bolt. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Katedrála
3 m to the right of the "Maze" route, upwards along the blunt edge over 2 BH, later by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Katedrála
Left on the wall from the start of the Maze route over blocks (2 BH) to the ledge, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Katedrála
To the left of the "Loss of Immunity" route, up the wall (5 BH) to the 1st and 2nd bolts… Rock Climbing
4+
Katedrála
Through the right chimney in the middle of the valley wall via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Katedrála
In the right part of the wall, along the left crack to the end and diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Katedrála
To the right of the "Quarry" route, up the wall and edge over 13 bolts to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Katedrála
To the left of "The Quarry", up the wall over 5 bolts to the edge and over the 6th bolt… Rock Climbing
4+
Katedrála
Through the left chimney in the middle of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Katedrála
From the 4th bolt of the route "Path to the Sun" left on the wall over 4 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Katedrála
Start via the "Royal Evening" route approximately 20m upwards, then diagonally right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Katedrála
To the right of the start of "Royal Evening", up the wall over BH and K to a short crack,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Katedrála
From the 1st K of the "Viky" route, left over 3K into the traverse of "Royal Evening" and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Katedrála
Same as the "Diagonal Swings" route to the 1st ring of the "Cimikiwi" route and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Katedrála
Up the iron-rich wall to the left in the valley wall and a small chimney/arete to the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Katedrála
To the left of "Royal Evening", up the wall over 3K to the balcony to the 2nd K of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Katedrála
Via a small chimney/arete over the 1st K to its end. Traverse right over the 2nd K into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Katedrála
To the right of the Phobos and Deimos route to the block and up the wall over 7 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Katedrála
Start 3m to the right of the "Genius of Mediocrity" route up the wall over 3K to the 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Katedrála
Completely in the left part, up the wall and slab wall over 4 BH to the 5th BH balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Kazatel
From the 2nd BH of Mom's Route 66 to the shelf, further right through the prominent… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2+
Katedrála
From the Megavega stance, right over the overhang... and further (see photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Katedrála
Through the left part of the wall (left of the "Genius of Mediocrity" route) over 14 BH Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Kazatel
From the 1st BH of Mom's Route 66, right up the wall over 3 BH to the rappel of Mom's… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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