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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Mnich
About 5m to the right of the "Old Route", up the face to the ledge, traverse right behind… Rock Climbing
2+
Mnich
In the upper face, by the rib to the ledge, right into the crack and then to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Mnich
To the right of the start of the "údolní cesta" (valley route), by stemming up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Mnich
In the SW face (K) to the overhang. From the left above the overhang and chimney to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Mnich
From the large balcony, up the middle of the wall, then traverse right to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mnich
In the middle of the S wall, over two steps to the ledge and over the wedged boulder to…
6-
Mnich
From the valley side from the balcony to the left of the Mešní víno route, up the face,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mnich
From the N, up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the ledge, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Mnich
To the right of the start of the "údolní cesta" (valley route), up the wall and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Mnich
From the 3rd bolt of the route "Jak v nebi tak na zemi" (As in Heaven, So on Earth), to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mnich
From the N, up the chimney between the tower and the massif (at the bottom as "údolní… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Mnich
On the left in the downhill W wall, along the edge over 2 bolts under the roof-like… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Metalistická stěna
To the left of the prominent corner, up the rib to the ring (K), up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Labský pravý totem
In the middle of the main massif, to the right of the route "Na číšníka", a short wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Labský pravý totem
In the left part of the massif, together with the Pepa nic route to the rock terrace … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Labský pravý totem
In the left part of the massif, through a short wall to the rock terrace into a corner … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Žába
On the left in the S wall, upwards to the right and along a rib to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Echo
"Through the wall over a BH (bolt) into a gully (2nd BH) and through it over a balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Echo
Through the wall directly over 2 BH (bolts) into a crack and through it to the rappel BH … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Žába
To the left of the "Old Route", through a short crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Žába
To the left of the "Under the Rappel" route, through a short wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Žába
On the left in the N wall, through a crack running diagonally left to a ledge in the E… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Žába
On the right on the north side, through an overhanging wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Žába
Through a crack in the downhill wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5+
Žába
Through the left downhill edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Žába
On the right in the S wall, over an ear (rock feature) to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
3
Žába
Through the wall along the right downhill edge to a ledge and then along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Žába
Through a short crack in the plateau (NW) edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
6+/7-
Ratejna
Through the center of the pillar over 2 K (knots/chocks) into a gully and thus to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Ratejna
To the right of the Krávovina route, through the SW wall and the left edge to the 1st BH … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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