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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

10-/10
Východní roh
From the 10th BH of the "Path to the Future" route, further along the wall over 2 new BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Východní roh
To the right of the start of the “Child of Time” route, wall over 3 BH to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Východní roh
Right parts of the downhill wall (approx. 6 m from the right of the corner), wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Východní roh
By a large corner in the downhill wall to the 1st K, over the overhang and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Východní roh
S wall to a small crack and along it to a ledge. Traverse left to the 2nd K of the “Child… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Východní roh
By the “Eldorado” route to the 1st K. Left on the wall over 5 BH to the notch to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Východní roh
S wall along the right edge, then diagonally left to the 1st K. Breakaways to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Východní roh
From K diagonally to the right, chimneying to a small balcony and inside the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Východní roh
From the NW, crack into the chimney between the tower and the massif. Chimneying to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Východní roh
Along the edge of the massif, descend to the saddle, step onto the tower and up the steps… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Hulicí salonek
Exit from the upper terrace. From the foreshore, from the right edge diagonally left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Hulicí salonek
Start like “Ganja” and wall over BH to the left onto the edge. Along it over 3 BH to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Hulicí salonek
Left of the large overhang to the 1st BH and corner to a balcony. Wall over 2 BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Hulicí salonek
Just to the right of the corner between Kyklop and Hulicí's lounge, crack and wall over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kyklop
From the S terrace, corner or chimney to the foreshore and, like the Pětiminutovka route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Kyklop
By a crack in the S wall diagonally to the right up to the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Kyklop
Right in the S wall by crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Kyklop
Downhill wall (BH, K, BH) and further over 7 K to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Kyklop
Downhill edge over 1 BH to the 1st BH in the route Grey Cataract, and rappel from there. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Kyklop
By the Crack in the North Wall route and higher to the left, edge to the 2nd BH. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Kyklop
Downhill edge and higher wall over 10 BH to rappel BH.
8-/8
Kyklop
From the 2nd BH of the Zbyňkův rest route, right on the wall, then edge over 10 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
Ústecká věž
Via the upper edge, at the top to the right of it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Ústecká věž
Start to the left of the "Left Valley Chimney". Up the wall to a belay station in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Kyklop
From the corner by the Ústí tower, a notch and wall past 4 BH to an overhang. To the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2+
Ústecká věž
In the left part of the valley wall, up the chimney into the gully, through to the upper… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Ústecká věž
To the right of the "Left Valley Chimney", up the wall via 6 K to a ledge and to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Ústecká věž
Via the Šach –Mat route to the 6th K and further directly and up the overhanging wall via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Ústecká věž
Up the blunt edge between the "Valley Route" and the "Šach Mat" route to the 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9+
Ústecká věž
Like the Velká rošáda route above the 3rd K. Up the wall and the overhang, first slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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