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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Barokní stěna
Up the wall past the 1st bolt hanger into the cracks of the “Galantní slavnosti” (Gallant… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Barokní stěna
Start like the “Menuet” route and up the crack to the end to the 1st bolt hanger. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Barokní stěna
In the left part of the main wall, up a crack for about 10 m and diagonally left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Barokní stěna
To the left of the “Menuet” route, up the wall via 7 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Barokní stěna
In the corner between Barokní stěna (Baroque Wall) and Orient, together with the Strachem… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Barokní stěna
In the left part of the wall, up the narrow wall via 7 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Orient
To the right of the "Arabia" route, up the corner and wall via 9 bolt hangers to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Orient
In the corner between Orient and Barokní stěna (Baroque Wall), up the corner and narrow… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Orient
To the left of the Strachem dachem route, up the edge, the wall with the rib, and at the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Orient
Right edge via 7 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Orient
About 3 m to the right of the Hamam route, up the wall and along the edge via 9 bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Orient
Left valley edge via 9 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Hřebenová jehla
From a crack ('Údolní cesty') diagonally right over 2 cracks into the hole to the 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Hřebenová jehla
Like Body without Soul, traverse via bolt hangers to the ledge. Ascend the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Hřebenová jehla
Up the center of the valley wall (bolts) to the ledge. Up the wall past 4 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Hřebenová jehla
In the right part of the valley wall, past 6 bolts to the 4th point of "Balance of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Hřebenová jehla
From the 2nd bolt of the "Positive Vibration" route, along the right valley edge past 7… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Hřebenová jehla
Same as "Body without Soul" to the 2nd point of the Balance of Happiness route. To the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Hřebenová jehla
Exactly up the center of the V wall, then diagonally to the right past 4 bolts to the NE… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Hřebenová jehla
To the left of the Standard Situation, from the edge of the ledge, up the V wall past 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Hřebenová jehla
From the holes above the 1st point to the 2nd point. Fall into the wall and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Hřebenová jehla
From the North, up the chimney (stemming) between the tower and the massif diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Hřebenová jehla
Up the center of the upland chimney past 4 bolts to the balcony (point). Then up the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Hřebenová jehla
Up the chimney (stemming) between the tower and the massif to the balcony. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Hřebenová jehla
Up the chimney (stemming) variant of the Valley Route to the balcony, higher up the South… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Hřebenová jehla
On the West side, from the gully between Hřebenová jehla (Comb Needle) and Porcelánová… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Porcelánová stěna
On the right in the V wall, up the crack to a ledge. Up the right corner crack under an… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Porcelánová stěna
Like the route "Forehand", up the crack to a ledge. Up the left corner crack, then up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Hřebenová jehla
From South into the gully and up the South edge to a point. (By stemming) up the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8+/9-
Porcelánová stěna
Start like the Forehand route and on the right up a protruding pillar past 6 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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