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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Tajemníkovy kouty
From the 1st BH of the Inspector Gadget route, traverse left through 5 BHs to the belay.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Rozlámaná stěna
In the right part of the wall approx. 10m to the left of "Walk the Line" a sharp edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 3rd bolt of the route Střepy znamenají štěstí (Shards Mean Happiness), 3 m along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 3rd bolt of the "Earthquake Free Zone" route, to the right along a distinct edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of the "Osmibřízková" route, through the middle of the wall over a bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Rozlámaná stěna
Start from the belay (stand) of the route "Tectonic Plate" to the 2nd bolt and then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of the route Chleba s máslem (starting from the upper terrace) belay (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the prominent roof-like overhang, up the corner crack under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 1st bolt of the route Chleba s máslem (Bread with Butter) up the wall and a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the route "Crazy Sima" directly over 4K to the 2nd bolt of the route … Rock Climbing
5+
Španělská stěna
Start from the corner between Spanish Boot and Spanish Wall. Up the small wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Španělská stěna
Between the Čenkaká tunten and Flamengo routes, up the wall (4BH) to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Španělská stěna
To the left of "Flamengo", up the wall (hourglass) to the 1st bolt. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Španělská stěna
From the 1st bolt of Snů spravedlivých, up the wall to the left and then straight up over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Španělská stěna
Up the chimney and crack to the right of "Kvapík" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Kvapík", up the wall over 3 bolts and the crack to the terrace near the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Španělská stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the second crack from the right and up the wall into… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Španělská stěna
To the left of "Kvapík", up the wall over 3 bolts to the balcony. Up the wall directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2+
Španělská stěna
Up the wall to the left of the Beginning of the End route, see photo. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Windy Hole", up the crack to the balcony and up the wall (bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Španělská stěna
To the right of "February Victory", up the chimney in the large corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Španělská stěna
To the left of "February Victory", up the wall to the footbridge. Along the edge over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Španělská stěna
By the edge to the left of the chimney to the slanting ledge. Along it to the left (belay… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Španělská stěna
From the footbridge, up the wall over 4 bolts to the summit. Nice wall climbing over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2+
Španělská stěna
To the left of the Maňána route, see photo. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Nachoz route, up the wall past 7 BH to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Španělská stěna
From the footbridge, chimneying to the 1st bolt and up the wall over ledges (3 bolts) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Španělská stěna
Up the slab to the right of Tapas via 5 BH and a loop to the sling under the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Chorizo route, up the wall to the left past 6 BH to the 6th BH of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Španělská stěna
Start to the right of the overhang, up the wall via 4 BH to the ledge (sling) and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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