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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Španělská stěna
Start in the left part of the Spanish wall, first up the chimney, then up the distinct… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8-/8
Španělská stěna
From the rappel of the Coca de Verdura route, up the overhanging wall via 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Výroční spára", up the chimney between the block and the massif,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Španělská stěna
Start from the large corner between the South bastion and the Spanish wall. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Španělská stěna
To the left of the Abrahámoviny route, up the slab via 3 BH and a sling to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Španělská stěna
Up the wall to the left of "Picasso" via 2 bolts to the terrace to the 4th BH of "Picasso… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Picasso route, up the wall via 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Bolero route, up the wall via a BH to the 1st BH of the Freska route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Španělská stěna
To the right of the route Bolero, up the rib in the overhang to the left via 2 BH under… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Španělská stěna
Completely to the left on the massif, from the corner between the Spanish wall and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Bolero", from the large ledge, up the overhanging wall via 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Španělská stěna
From the terrace to the right of the Bolero route diagonally right to a BH. Directly to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Španělská stěna
Completely to the left, up the corner and crack via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Španělská stěna
To the left of "Bolero", up the overhanging crack and edge via 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Jižní bašta
Start from the detachment to the left of "Varianta Cesty středem". Diagonally left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní bašta
In the overhanging wall to the right of the route "Hugo", climb through the wall across … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Jižní bašta
Through the center of the left pillar into the crack, along it and wall to the 1st anchor… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Jižní bašta
From the 9th BH of "Chronos & Kairos" right from the edge, overhang and wall across 4 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jižní bašta
Like "Hugo" approx. 4m upwards and left wall and at the top edge and overhanging rib… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Jižní bašta
Left of the "časová tíseň" route wall and edge across 7 BH to the 1st anchor of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jižní bašta
In the left part of the valley face like the Timeout route (4 BH) further left the north… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2+
Strážce pyramidy
In the right part of the wall across the block and overhang Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce pyramidy
In the left part of the wall diagonally to the right Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Strážce pyramidy
Through the center of the wall diagonally to the right (5BH) to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Mimoni
Along the chimney and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Pyramida
Like "Vratký králíček" to the 3rd BH and along the edge left across 2 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Pyramida
Like "Mumie" to the 5th BH and via overhanging wall directly to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Pyramida
From the balcony near the start of the Sahara hadr route. From the right onto the SE edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Pyramida
From the south side, step over from the boulder and briefly along the edge. Then left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Pyramida
Using a chimney technique in the SW face to the 1st anchor. Traverse left, using a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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