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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Hladomorna
From the hourglass of the "Shibari" route, left along the crack (2 bolts) to the shelf … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kupka
On the right, downhill edge through 7 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kupka
In the right part of the downhill wall, to the right of the 'Journey to the Center of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kupka
To the right of the 'Downhill Wall' route, edge through 5 bolts and then easily up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kupka
On the downhill side, first briefly along the SE edge, then left through a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Kupka
On the right uphill edge to the overgrown shelf and further to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Kupka
Through the middle of the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kupka
From the base of the tower in the SW corner through a crack (1st bolt) and straight up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Kupka
On the west side, crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Díra v zákoně
In the left part of the massif wall through 7 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
Kupka
On the left in the uphill wall diagonally to the left and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Díra v zákoně
To the right of the route 'Tax Evasion', wall through 8 bolts to the rappel bolt of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Kobka
From the upper side via a ledge to the left and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Kobka
In the south face on the shelf, right and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Kobka
In the NE wall along a small rib and up a overgrown wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Kobka
Up the lower (NE) edge, higher up via a crack to an overhang and rightwards via an… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Kobka
Left in the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Kobka
Up the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Kněz Labský
From the valley above the small cave, difficultly directly over the small overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Kobka
From the chimney between the tower and the massif via a narrow chimney or a stemming move… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Samuraj
First route from the right. Up the wall into a small chimney (2 BH). From the right over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Samuraj
Right of Warrior's Path, up the wall over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Samuraj
Through the center of the wall via a crack and higher up via a corner and chimney over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Richard III.
In the north wall from a large block, up the wall and an overhang over 7 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Samuraj
First route from the left. Traverse left to the 1st BH. Up the wall to the 2nd BH into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Richard III.
Start on the right from a rock. Up a narrow wall under an overhang and from the left up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Samuraj
Start left of the route "Warrior's Path". Up the wall first straight and then diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Richard III.
In the left part of the wall over 8 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Richard III.
Like "Chytrák z Labáku" to the 1st BH and diagonally left up the overhanging rusty wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Richard III.
Through the center of the wall over 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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