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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Pyramida
From the start of Tichá dohoda (rappel bolt), using a chimney technique (1st BH) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Pyramida
Left of the start of the Sahara hadr route, an overhanging corner (1st BH) and then wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Pyramida
Via the Degradace hodnot route to the 1st anchor. From the right, wall (1st BH) and along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Pyramida
Like the "Pharaoh's Bedchamber" route, via the belay station into the chimney. Up it,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
9/9+
Pyramida
From the pillar in the west face, over the overhang via 2 bolts (BH) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Pyramida
Start from the foothills. Up the right overhanging edge to the ledge, traverse left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Pyramida
In the west face, up the pillar via 2 bolts (BH) and left to the edge. Along the edge via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Pyramida
From the balcony on the north side (BH), to the right of the "Path of Enlightenment", up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Pyramida
To the left of the "Path of Enlightenment", via 2 bolts (BH) to the ledge (belay). Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Pyramida
On the right in the north face, up the prominent corner crack to a large ledge (belay… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Pyramida
To the left of "Pharaoh's Bedchamber" from the balcony on the north side (BH), up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Pyramida
In the left part of the north face, to the left of the corner, up the pillar via 3 bolts … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Pyramida
To the right of the "Magic Eye" route, up the crack to the 3rd bolt (BH) of the "Magic… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Pyramida
In the left part of the northwest face, up the right crack to the rappel. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Pyramida
To the left of the "Magic Eye" route, between the cracks, directly via a bolt (BH) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Pyramida
In the left part of the northwest face, up the left crack to the rappel. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Pyramida
To the left of "Uber", directly up the face via a bolt (BH) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Valoun
Through the center of the overhanging west face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Valoun
Up the south face along cracks, passing a bolt (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Valoun
Along the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Valoun
In the center of the overhanging wall, climb to the summit via a chockstone (K). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Valoun
On the left in the overhanging wall, climb to the summit via a bolt (BH). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Valoun
On the left in the south wall near the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
2+
Valoun
On the right in the south wall by crack (not specified). Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4+
Valoun
Through the middle of the south wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
5+
Valoun
In the left part of the overhanging wall, use a small chimney to reach the start of … Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6-
Hladomorna
From the start of the 'Law of the Stronger' route, to the right, corner through 5 bolts,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Hladomorna
Crack on the left in the downhill wall (2 bolts) to the hourglass and right wall and rib … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Hladomorna
To the right of "The Elevator", wall through 7 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Hladomorna
In the middle of the downhill wall, crack and wall through 7 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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