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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Richard III.
Opposite "Degen von Jura". Start from a gap left of the edge. Up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Sklerotik
Through the center of the SE wall from the corner over 4 BH to the 5th BH of the route … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Sklerotik
Through the center of the short, slightly overhanging north wall over 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Sklerotik
About 2.5 m right of the route "Levou zadní", up the wall over 2 BH, then friction… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Sklerotik
Left in the East wall along small cracks over 3 BH to a ledge and up an easier angled… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Sklerotik
Right of the Golden Middle route, briefly along a corner, then along a ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Atlantida
Completely in the right part of the massif (left of Sklerotik), diagonally left into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Atlantida
On the north side of the massif, in the large corner, up the left notch via 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Sklerotik
In the left part of the lower SE wall over 4 BH to a ledge. Along the edge and the wall … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Atlantida
Like Hamburger Crack, briefly up the corner to the balcony and to the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Atlantida
On the north side of the massif, to the right of the "Trefa do Miluny" route, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Atlantida
From the valley, up the corner and pillar to the BH under the overhang. Left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Atlantida
To the right of the "Chupitos" route, up the small wall (BH), then up the groove via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Atlantida
To the left of the "Chupistos" route, up the wall via 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9/9+
Atlantida
To the left of the "View of Eternity" route, up the wall and slab via 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Atlantida
To the left in the valley wall, up the corner chimney via 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Atlantida
Up the overhanging smooth belly in the valley wall to the ledge (4 BH) and then up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Atlantida
Start as for "Lost World" and to the right up the wall via 1st BH to the balcony. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Atlantida
Up the corner of the Discworld route below its 1st BH (sling) and right to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Atlantida
In the left part of the right wall, up the corner (1st BH) and higher up to the left up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Atlantida
Start on the broken slabby wall in the far left part of the wall to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Alcatraz
In the right part of the massif between the routes "Limited Edition" and "On Your Own"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Alcatraz
Through the center of the wall to the right of the prominent corner via 4 BH under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Atlantida
To the left of the "Lost World", up a slabby wall slightly to the balcony, right via the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Alcatraz
All the way to the right on the massif, up the wall via 2 BH to the inclined corner,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Alcatraz
Via "Limited Edition" to the 4th BH and then up the wall directly under the ceiling,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Alcatraz
Start with a chimney like the "Beware of the Warden" route and traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Alcatraz
Left wall of the large corner along the edge via 3 BH to the 4th BH of the "Ass to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Alcatraz
Start with a striking corner in the middle of the massif. Follow it and further up along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Alcatraz
To the right of the "Thieves of Time" route, through a crack to the end (loop). Through a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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