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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Tunel
Up the left part of the left face via 4 BHs to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kriminál
Up the N face, later the edge, 4 BHs to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kriminál
Up the NE edge 2 BHs to the shallow corner 3rd BH, up the face over the small overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kriminál
Right of the start of the "Cucumber Season" route, up the face via a BH and then follow… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kriminál
Right of the Visio in Extremis route, up the corner (2 BHs). Traverse right and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Kriminál
Follow the "Cucumber Season" route to the 2nd BH and straight up the face (2 BHs) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Kriminál
Right of the Third Correction, up the face via 3 BHs to the 3rd BH of the Crime Scene… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kriminál
In the lower face, up the overhanging crack (2 BHs) into the fissure, follow it (3rd BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Kriminál
About 5m to the right of the "Third Correction" route, up the small corner and left along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Kriminál
Follow the 3rd Correction route above the 2nd BH and right up the face via 5 BHs to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kriminál
Left of the "Family Gang" route, along the edge and up the face via 4 BHs to the lower… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Kriminál
Left of the Děčínská mafie (Decin Mafia) route, up the face via 4 BHs to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Kriminál
Above the 2nd BH of the "Third Correction" route, traverse left along the rounded ledge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kriminál
Start from the rock left of the "Third Correction" route, traverse right to the 1st BH,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Kriminál
In the left part of the massif, left of the Recidiva route, stemming up via 3 BHs, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Kriminál
From the balcony above the 2nd BH of the Recidiva route, upwards and from the right along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Kriminál
In the left part of the massif, in the corner behind Zloděj (Thief), right to the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kriminál
Right of the Unresolved Case route, follow the cracks via 2 BHs to the balcony. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Zloděj
Through the center of the lower face via 2 crimps (K) to the lower terrace (belay BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Zloděj
Through the center of the S face via 2 BHs directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Zloděj
Up the left lower edge via 2 crimps (K) to the lower terrace (belay BH) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Zloděj
From the SW, up the chimney in the massif and through the squeeze to the terrace. Via the… Rock Climbing
5
Zloděj
To the right of the lower V edge, traverse the wall and crack to the left into the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zloděj
From the 2nd K to the right to the edge and diagonally to the left to the BH and by the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zloděj
Left of the lower edge, follow the ribs diagonally right to the edge and up the face to a… Rock Climbing
5+
Zloděj
From the beginning of the corner of the "Forest Arrogance" route, traverse the edge via 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Zloděj
By the Catch Him! route to the 1st K. Slightly from the left up the wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Zloděj
Through the middle of the S wall to the 1st K. Diagonally to the right to the edge (2nd K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Zloděj
S edge over the 1st BH just above the 2nd BH. To the right through the middle of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Zloděj
By the "Sacrilege" route to the horizontal notch and diagonally to the left by a corner … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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