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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Malá bašta
As for "Černá spára" to the ring, then straight up the wall past 7 bolts (K) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Malá bašta
Start in the corner. Up the wall under the overhang and traverse across a ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Malá bašta
Up the wall to the left of the "Černá spára" route, past 7 bolts (Bh) to the 6th bolt (Bh… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Malá bašta
Up the center of the wall past 12 bolts (BH) to the rappel bolt (K). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Malá bašta
Start to the left of the "Hezká Ina" route. Up the wall past 3 bolts (Bh) to the "Soutěž… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Malá bašta
Via the "Hezký Alfréd" route to the 4th bolt (BH). Then to the left up the wall past 7… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Velká bašta
Along the S edge via 3 K to the platform (belay station). Chimney 2m down, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Velká bašta
To the left of the "Eagle Edge" route, up the wall via 2 BH, K and 3 BH. You can finish… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Velká bašta
To the right of "The Notched Path" briefly under the ceiling, from the left into the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Velká bašta
Start with "The Notched Path" and diagonally right to the 1st BH. Along the edge via 4 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Velká bašta
To the right of the "League of the Unregistered" route via 11 BH to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Velká bašta
To the left of the "League of the Unregistered" route, up the wall via 3 BH and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Velká bašta
Up the wall to the right of "The Defiant Path" which we later cross via BH and 8 K to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Velká bašta
To the left of "The Path of the Standard Bearers", up the wall via 2 BH to the sloping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Velká bašta
To the right of the "Circle after Circle" route, 8m like "The Defiant Path" and left up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Velká bašta
Through the center of the overhanging wall via the clock, 9 K and 2 BH to the overhang.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Velká bašta
To the left of "Circle after Circle", up the wall via 5 BH to the 7th K of "Vertical… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Velká bašta
To the left of the "Downhill Corner" route, up the wall via 7 BH to the rappel ring. … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Velká bašta
From the start of "Vertical Revue", left up the overhanging wall, finally up the slab… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Velká bašta
Through the center of the wall, up the corner via 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Velká bašta
To the left of the "Circle after Circle" route, up the wall via 10 K to the crack of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Velká bašta
From the 3rd ring directly along the edge higher up the gully to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Velká bašta
From the 2nd bolt of the route "New Thought" diagonally right across the BH under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Velká bašta
Through the left valley edge (2 K) and wall to the beginning of the prominent ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Velká bašta
Start from the gorge to the left of Velká Bašta. Along the prominent ledge in the N wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Bufet
To the right along the edge over 3 bh to the ledge bh. Diagonally right to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bufet
Through the center of the wall 3 BH to the ledge 4. BH. Left wall along the edge and edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Start to the right of the Right Chimney route, diagonally left across the wall over 7 Bh… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Baldachýn
Like "Parallel Chimney" about 15m and traverse left to the 1st K. Traverse 3m left and up… Rock Climbing
6
Baldachýn
To the left of "Parallel Chimney" by the wall over BH and K to the 1st K "Sokolík". Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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