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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Baldachýn
In the left part of the wall via a narrow chimney and corner crack to the terrace (stance… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Through the left part of the wall via 5 BH to the ledge. Along the crack and edge via 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Left of “Head Cheese on the Run” via 8BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Baldachýn
At the left edge of the massif via corner cracks up to loose blocks and a system of… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Baldachýn
As “Matěj's Fair” (St. Matthew's Pilgrimage) via easy terrain under a narrow chimney,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Baldachýn
Along the left edge (4BH) and diagonally right up the wall to the 5th BH of the “Homemade… Rock Climbing
6-
Trůn
As the “Old Path” to the 1st ledge and traverse right along the entire N and valley wall… Rock Climbing
3
Trůn
From the massif make a leap to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Trůn
From S into the gully between the tower and the massif. Via the chimney in the massif to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Trůn
From the massif descend to the ledge and make a leap to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Trůn
As "Jump" descend to the ledge and further descend into the narrow band. Wide step-over… Rock Climbing
5
Trůn
About 5m below the piton traverse left behind the edge and up the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Trůn
As "Dream of a Yellow Rose" to the ledge. Up the wall to the balcony, then along the edge… Rock Climbing
6
Trůn
From the 1st bolt of the route "King's Taster" left to the edge and along it over a bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Trůn
As "Old Route" into the chimney and through it to its end on the ledge. Right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Trůn
From S between the tower and the massif about 12m up, then by stemming left to the crack… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Trůn
From the piton of the "Southeast Route" traverse left into the S wall and by that over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Trůn
To the right of "Game over" along the edge over 5 bolts to the bolt from "Bemalte Clowns"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Trůn
From the piton of the "Southeast Route" traverse left to the edge and by that over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Trůn
Through the center of the East wall over 3 bolts to the 1st piton of the "Valley Route". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Trůn
From S via the stemming chimney between the tower and the massif several meters up, then… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Trůn
Along the right valley edge over 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Trůn
Through the center of the valley wall over 2 bolts and 3 pitons, then slightly right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8/8+
Trůn
From the 3rd bolt of the route "Victor's Cleaners" left to the 7th bolt of the route … Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Trůn
In the right part of the valley wall over 2 bolts and a piton into a shallow corner.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Trůn
Via the route "Last Relic" 3m above the bolt above the overhang. Diagonally right by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Trůn
In the left part of the valley wall over 7 bolts below the overhang (here possibility to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Trůn
To the left of the route "Wizard Žito" along the edge over 6 bolts below the overhang,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Trůn
Via the route "Against the Current" higher to the 5th and 6th bolts of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Trůn
From the west side, left, via a crack into the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall

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