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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Letní rezidence
Along the wall to the left of the route "ELA HAVANA" over 2 bolts onto the shelf and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Letní rezidence
To the right of the route "Sedím na Polici" (Sitting on the Shelf) over 2 bolts onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Letní rezidence
Along the edge higher up the sloping wall over 5 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Letní rezidence
Wall and edge of the pillar over 6BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing
5
Minaret
Pillar to the right of Unsuccessful Route over 4 BH to the abseil BH.
5
Minaret
Start in the right part of the wall through a 10m chimney, then obliquely left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Minaret
Middle of the lower wall over 4 BH and obliquely right (crossing Unsuccessful Route) into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Minaret
Start via the route "Unsuccessful Route" after 10 m obliquely left into the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Minaret
To the right of the left lower chimney through the slabby wall along the blunt edge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Minaret
Through the chimney of route "Uryvky koránu" (Fragments of the Quran) approx. 6 m and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Minaret
Through the left chimney, later left along the pillar over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Minaret
From the valley along the lowest left edge from the left over walls and further by a step… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Hektor
In the right part of the massif, to the left of the corner and the route "MRAKOLAPKA" … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hektor
From the balcony below the SE wall to the right of Achilles' heel into the crack and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hektor
Along the right lower edge to the ledge. Traverse left into the crack, up it to the edge… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hektor
To the right of the Path for Eliška, through the corner and the wall to the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Hektor
Between the routes "Achilles' Heel" and "Motolice" (Fluke) up the wall over 6K to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hektor
From the ledge to the right via the small pinnacle to its end, slightly right about 3m up… Rock Climbing
6
Hektor
Start in the left part of the wall. Over 4K to the overhang, over it from the right to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hektor
Middle of the valley wall over 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hektor
To the left of the route "Prazdroj" (Pilsner Urquell), along the edge up the wall over 4K… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hektor
To the left of the route "Na prasáka" (Like a Pig) via a corner and crack. Left up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Ledová stěna
From the corner to the right of the Northern Wind route, up a small wall over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Ledová stěna
From the balcony, go right behind the edge to the crack and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Ledová stěna
From the 1st K along the edge and left up the wall to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Ledová stěna
Along the right valley edge (2 K) and right via a crack to the balcony. Further 3m left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Ledová stěna
Middle of the valley wall over 3 K into the crack and via it to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Ledová stěna
As "Summit of the Glacier" to the 4th K, then diagonally right via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Ledová stěna
Between the routes "Northern Wind" and "Gabarrou" along the depression, higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Titanic
From the balcony of Ferryman's Wrath, traverse right over the overhang via BH and an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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