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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Grindelwaldská stěna
Via the route "Iron" below the overhang. Traverse 4m left and up a crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Grindelwaldská stěna
From the balcony of the route "Return Home without Return" (BH, belay station), descend… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Grindelwaldská stěna
Right of the start of the route "Swallow's Nest Route", up the gully to the large balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Grindelwaldská stěna
Right of the start of the route "Swallow's Nest Route", up the gully to the large balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Grindelwaldská stěna
Right of the start of the route "Swallow's Nest Route", up the gully to the large balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Grindelwaldská stěna
From the 2nd belay station of the route "Eigerwand Station", right to the pillar and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Grindelwaldská stěna
Left in the valley wall inside a large chimney behind a block upwards and up the chimney… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Grindelwaldská stěna
Left of the route "Cave Chimney", up the wall (bolt) to a balcony, briefly up a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Grindelwaldská stěna
Right of the route "Cave Chimney", up the left crack on the wall via 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Grindelwaldská stěna
Right of the start of the route "Swallow's Nest Route", up the gully to the large balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Grindelwaldská stěna
Right of the start of the route "Swallow's Nest Route", up the gully to the large balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Cínový vojáček
Up a crack in the NW face over an overhang, up the wall to another crack and to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Grindelwaldská stěna
Left in the S face, up a fissure to a balcony. Up a crack over a pinnacle to another… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Grindelwaldská stěna
From the start of the route "Expressive Crack", up the left fissure over an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Cínový vojáček
From the fore-peak, up the overhanging E edge to a balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Cínový vojáček
To the right in the S face, up a crack to a ledge and then via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Cínový vojáček
From the overgrown NE balcony, up the wall over an overhang (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Cínový vojáček
Up the left crack in the S face to a balcony. Then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Cínový vojáček
To the right of the uphill (SW) edge, rightwards up to a balcony and left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Cínový vojáček
Up the left uphill (W) edge via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Cínový vojáček
From the start of the Old Route, up the uphill (SW) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Dešťová věž
From the saddle, traverse left into the valley (North) face and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Čertova stěna
About 3m to the right of the chimney of the "Old Route", up the overhanging rib in the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Čertova stěna
Up the chimney of the "Old Route" for about 3m, then diagonally right up the South face… Rock Climbing
4+
Čertova stěna
Completely to the right in the South face, up the wall and shallow cracks over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Čertova stěna
3m left of the "Rheumatic Route", up a corner to the balcony. To the right up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Čertova stěna
From the saddle between Devil's Wall and Rainy Tower, up an indentation and rib over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Čertova stěna
Via the Rainy Wall route to the 2nd bolt. From there, from the left, to the 3rd bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Čertova stěna
From the base of the wall up the NE edge past 3 bolts and then left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Čertova stěna
From the start of the "Rainy Wall" diagonally right around the edge to the balcony. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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