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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Čertova stěna
4m left of the "Two-Generation" route, up the wall (bolt) into an elongated hole and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Čertova stěna
From the balcony on the North side, about 5m left of the chimney of the "Old Route",… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Čertova stěna
From the large boulder on the North side of the tower, to the right of Solid Route, up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Čertova stěna
On the North side, about 2m to the right of the chimney of the "Old Route", up a narrow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Čertova stěna
Like the Forgotten Route, up the rib over the overhang and directly up the wall past 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Čertova stěna
From the balcony on the left on the North side, 2m left of the chimney of the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Čertova stěna
On the North side of the North pillar up the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Čertova stěna
Like "Wasp's Corner" about 3m, up the wall under the overhang diagonally left, then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Čertova stěna
Start with the "Grey Route", a short traverse right over the overhang into the chimney… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Čertova stěna
Up the crack in the NE face of the North pillar into a niche. To the left via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Čertova stěna
Completely to the right in the North face in a large corner with a double crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Čertova stěna
From the massif, descend to the plateau, traverse to the SW edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Čertova stěna
From the bolt along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Čertova stěna
Via the crack in the left upper (NW) edge over the overhang to the balcony to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Čertova stěna
Along the SW edge into the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Čertova stěna
About 2.5m to the right of the "Gentle Crack" up the wall along the notches to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Čertova stěna
From the SW, through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the plateau in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Čertova stěna
Like "Gentle Crack" to the ledge and gully to K. Left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Čertova stěna
About 6m to the right of the SW edge, up a gully to the ledge. Along it briefly to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Čertova stěna
2.5m to the right of the "Pentecost Route" through a crack and up the wall to K, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Čertova stěna
3m to the left of the "Old Route" chimney (by building) and up the crack, higher up via… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Čertova stěna
Through the chimney of the "Old Route" for about 5m, then traverse left into the crack.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2
Čertova stěna
From the south, via the chimney that splits the tower, to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Večernice
Overhanging edge directly to the ring of the Paragraf route (loop in the crack on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Večernice
Chimney near the NW edge, higher up with a span to K. Left along the wall and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Večernice
Right part of the S wall via 2K and BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Večernice
To the left via the valley wall to a bolt. Up the overhanging wall and right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Večernice
To the left along the North edge, a bolt to the ledge and via the 'North Edge' to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Večernice
Directly up the center of the NE face (bolt) to the ledge and then via the 'Northeast… Rock Climbing
4+
Večernice
Start directly up the East edge to the ledge. Rock Climbing

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