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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Proton
In the left part of the S wall along the cracks, higher up the wall via 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Majdaléna
Along the edge to the left of the route "Elbe Odyssey" (3 K and 4 BH). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Majdaléna
Along the NW edge over 2 K, higher up the corner and back to the edge to the 3rd K. Above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Majdaléna
In the right part of the S Iron Wall via 3 bolts to the 4th bolt of the route "It climbs,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Majdaléna
To the right of the "Steel Crack" over 3 bolts and slightly right to the 4th bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Majdaléna
To the left of the "Steel Crack", up the wall over 3 bolts to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Majdaléna
Along the crack in the S wall to its end (stance). Over the overhang and left to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Medvěd
Along the right valley edge (3BH) to the anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Medvěd
Up the center of the valley face (1st BH), then from the left upwards (2nd BH) and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Medvěd
Up the center of the S face (3BH) to the anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Medvěd
Via route "Bombáro" to a ledge (sling) and directly up the edge to the summit and left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Medvěd
To the right of the large valley corner, up the stone wall (BH) and directly onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Medvěd
Along the left valley edge (2BH) to a ledge and traverse to the 2nd BH of the route … Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Medvěd
In the corner, along the left edge of the wide crack (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-
Medvěd
Up the center of the left part of the face (2 BH) to the anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Medvěd
In the left part of the face, to the left up the wall (2BH) to the abseil point (SBH). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Medvěd
From the route, directly up the narrow NW face (2 BH) to the abseil bolt (BH). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Mešita
Along the valley edge over 3 BH to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Mešita
To the left of the route "Svatá pravda" via a crack over 2K to the abseil bolt (BH). Rock Climbing
4-
Kamenný mužík
Briefly like "Old Route" and directly up the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Kamenný mužík
Start like "Old Route" and right of "Birthday Route" directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Kamenný mužík
About 4m left of the start of "Valley Crack" up the wall and crack, approximately in the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Kamenný mužík
In the large corner on the E side upwards and via a chimney left into the cave. Over… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Kamenný mužík
Freely to the N pre-rock. From there via an oblique crack, or edge under a small overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Kamenný mužík
Left of the N edge of the pre-rock via an overhang, crack and gully to the pre-rock. … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Kamenný mužík
Left of "Valley Chimney" via a crack in the middle of the SW face to the pre-rock and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kamenný mužík
From the start of the "Horám zdar..." route to the ledge, left and up the wall (K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Kamenný mužík
Right of the "Horam zdar..." route, along the edge and left up the wall via 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Kamenný mužík
In the right part of the valley (NW) face from the pre-rock via a rib left to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Kamenný mužík
Just left of "Valley Chimney" via a small corner to the pre-rock, and like "Valley… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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