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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Almara
From the lowest point of the massif via a narrow NW wall over the 1st K to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Almara
To the right of the route Fingerprint over K to the right onto a blunt edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Almara
4 m to the right of the route "Eyes of Twilight" up the wall slightly left to K. Left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Almara
Up the wall to the left of the route "Fingerprint" over 2 K to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Almara
In the left (N) part of the massif via a crack-chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Almara
In the left (N) part of the massif via a distinctive narrow crack over 2 K to the shelf… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Almara
To the right of the route Lynx... directly up the wall over the BH to the crack and onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Lampion
About 2 m to the right of Euphoria, up the NW wall to the overgrown balcony and left to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
9+
Lampion
To the right of the lowest point of the massif, along the wall and the overhanging N edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Almara
To the left of the route "Lynx in the Chimney" by wall from the left to the shelf, higher… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Lampion
Left on the pillar from the large block along the E edge and straight up the wall over BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Borová věž
Through the center of the SE wall to the rib and from there slightly obliquely left to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Borová věž
Along the "Plateau Route" to the rib and obliquely right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Borová věž
In the middle of the SW wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Borová věž
Along the indistinct S edge, at the top along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Borová věž
From the boulders on the E side obliquely right into the valley wall and along it near… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Borová věž
About 3m left of the "East Route" via a delicate crack in the rounded edge, then the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Borová věž
From the boulders on the E side via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Borová věž
Completely left from the valley side through a chimney and wall to the right into a hole… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Borová věž
From the base of the valley wall through a chimney to a large block. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Borová věž
From the plateau of the "Old Route" directly up the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Ufo
Along the left edge over BH and rappel BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Borová věž
From the SW, from the gorge, through the corner to the fore-rock and via the gully to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Borová věž
From the NW edge of the tower, along the valley wall obliquely left over overgrown steps,… Rock Climbing
5
Sezóna v pekle
2m to the right of the 'Drunken Ship' route, through the corner to (K), right edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Sezóna v pekle
To the right of the 'Marriage of Heaven and Hell' route, along the gently sloping W wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6-
Sezóna v pekle
To the right of the prominent corner along the edge to BH. Along the edge or the slab to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Sezóna v pekle
Through the prominent overhanging corner, finally with the help of the left crack, to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Sezóna v pekle
To the left of the prominent overhanging corner through a narrow crack over the BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Čertova hlava
From the plateau side traverse right to the overhanging edge. Along it (K) directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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