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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
De Bill
From the BH of the 'Idiot in the Theater' route, up the wall from the right to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
De Bill
On the North edge, to the left of the 'Pita' route, through a small indentation to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
De Bill
Approximately in the middle of the valley wall, over 3 BH to a ledge and to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
De Bill
Along the edge over 2 BH to the 1st BH of the 'Great Scar' route and then to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
De Bill
On the lower pillar, up the left small ridge under the overhang, over it (BH) and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
De Bill
Along the left edge of the lower pillar upwards and to the right to a short crack on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Ten pi-tchus
From the right balcony, wall to BH, from the right to the 2nd BH and to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Ten pi-tchus
East wall from the left to 1st BH, from the right under the overhang (loops) and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Ten pi-tchus
On the valley side, to the left of the corner, a sharp edge to the ledge below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Ten pi-tchus
On the valley side to the right of the corner, up the pillar to the balcony. From its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Argo
Far right, a wide crack that narrows (1st BH) and diagonally left (2nd BH) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Argo
Right part of the massif via a smooth small wall over 2 BH and hourglasses to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Argo
2 m to the right of Buchtičky, a thin crack and left to the rappel of Buchtičky. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Argo
In the right part of the massif along a hairline crack and hand crack to the ledge. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Argo
Via the crack and small wall to the 1st BH and up to the 4th BH of the "Parfém bláznivého… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Argo
To the right of the Lubrikační girl route, via a fine crack to the end at the 1st BH. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Argo
Wide crack in the middle of the massif via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Argo
In the middle of the massif (left of Buchtičky) via a smooth small wall over 3 BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Argo
Just to the right of the "Věžky Ježka" tower, via the middle thin crack and small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Argo
Up the left valley edge of the prominent pillar via 2 BH to the pillar (BH). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Argo
Via the Lubrikační girl route to the 2nd BH. Left into the adjacent narrow crack, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Argo
On the right side of the prominent pillar (Věžky Ježka) via the corner to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Argo
Just left of the prominent pillar (Věžky Ježka) via the crack, later right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Argo
5 m to the left of the prominent pillar (Věžky Ježka) up the wall along a delicate crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Argo
Left of (Věžky Ježka) left of the crack up the wall via 4 BH. Further right along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Argo
Up the left side wall of the prominent pillar (Věžky Ježka) via 2 BH to the pillar to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Argo
To the right on the left pillar, a laid-back wall along the edge via 3 BH to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Myslivecká bašta
To the right of the Bitten by a Boar route, straight up the wall over BH to the exit of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Myslivecká bašta
Completely to the right in the upper wall via a crack into a cave, to the left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Myslivecká bašta
To the right of the Hungry Stone route, from the block over the overhang to the 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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