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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Myslivecká bašta
Up the chimney in the middle of the upper right wall to the summit (rappel BH). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Myslivecká bašta
To the right of the Placatec route. Over the overhang and along the edge over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Myslivecká bašta
To the left of the Placatec route, from the block up the wall over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Myslivecká bašta
Up the wall in the left part of the upper right wall over K to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Myslivecká bašta
From the ledge under the left part of the upper right wall, to the left into the chimney,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Myslivecká bašta
To the right in the valley wall from the balcony up the wall over the 1st K and ledges to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Myslivecká bašta
Like the Protective Coat route into the chimney. Via a crack and opposition up to below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Myslivecká bašta
From the start of the route "Protective Coat.." descend 5 m to the balcony. To the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Myslivecká bašta
Via the Platinum Blonde Dynamite route up to below the 2nd K and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Myslivecká bašta
To the right into the Higher Caste route, up the center of the wall (5 BH) to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9/9+
Myslivecká bašta
From the start of the Past route via a crack to BH. Above it directly with the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Myslivecká bašta
To the right of the start of the Boar Hunter route, over steps to the left into a shallow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Myslivecká bašta
From the valley wall, up the corner to the balcony via a crack, then along the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8+/9-
Myslivecká bašta
In the left part of the valley wall, up the overhanging wall directly over BH and above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8/8+
Myslivecká bašta
From the start of the Samorost route, to the left via an indentation, edge and wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Myslivecká bašta
In the left part of the valley wall from the prominent stone up the smooth wall (1st BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Myslivecká bašta
On the SE side of the massif, up the corner (BH) under the overhang and up the wall (K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Myslivecká bašta
In the upper part of the left side wall (from Receptář) via a crack to the end (K), along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Receptář
Along the right edge via BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Myslivecká bašta
In the upper part of the left side wall (from Receptář), to the right of the crack, from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Receptář
Up the center of the valley wall via BH, finally to the right to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Čípek
Along the right valley edge of the pillar to the 1st BH. Above the overhang, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Čípek
Up the face directly to BH, slightly left to the 2nd BH and directly to the top for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Čípek
On the left side of the pillar from the chimney right along the overhanging edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Malý buddha
Through the middle of the valley wall (3 BH) to the rappelling point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Malý buddha
In the right part of the valley wall (4 BH) to the rappelling point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malý buddha
In the left part of the valley wall, to the right of the 'Root of Knowledge' route (3 BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malý buddha
In the left part of the valley wall of the massif, up the wall, then diagonally right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9+
Eminenece
In the north wall over (3BH) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Pranýř
In the right part of the massif, up the wall over 5 BH to the rappel. (rappel shared with… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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