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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Pranýř
Up the left part of the SW wall directly over 4 rings to the rappel. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pranýř
About 4m to the right of the 'Wind in the Pocket' route, up an iron-rich wall to a ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Pranýř
To the right of 'Forgiveness', up the wall directly over the BH into the depression and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Pranýř
Up the center of the S wall directly to the BH, above it from the right higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pranýř
From the 1st BH of the 'Forgiveness' route, left into the crack and along it to the BH. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Dámský masiv
Completely to the right via a prominent arête (1st BH) and a wall over K and 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Baba Vanga
Overhanging crack higher up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Pranýř
From the gorge between Pranýř and Valdštejnská Wall (by the large birch tree) via an iron… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Baba Vanga
In the valley wall along the edge and over the overhang to the BH and from there directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Dámský masiv
In the right part of the massif along the blunt edge and up the wall over 3 BH to the 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Dámský masiv
In the right part of the wall, through the corner further right up the crack (1st BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Dámský masiv
To the right of "Dámská volenka" (Ladies' Choice), from the corner diagonally right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Dámský masiv
Through the small gully under the large overhang to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Dámský masiv
South face to the 1st BH, over the overhang to the 2nd BH and further to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Dámský masiv
In the NW face, along the edge over the BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Dámský masiv
In the South face, to the left of the large entrance chimney, up the corner crack higher… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Dámský masiv
In the South face, up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Dámský masiv
In the South face, to the left of the chimney, up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Dámský masiv
Along the SW edge over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Dámský masiv
In the South face, to the right of the chimney "Bratři v triku" (Brothers in T-Shirts),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
9+
Dámský masiv
To the left of the route "Porno jazz" directly up the wall (1st BH). Slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Pod Prasečí skálou
Right of the 'Mág' route, diagonally right via 2 bolts to the 3rd bolt of the 'Nevermind'… Rock Climbing
6
Pod Prasečí skálou
From the left edge in the North wall diagonally right via 2 bolts to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Sirotek
Along the valley edge, then right up the wall via 4 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Sirotek
Right of the 'Řetězová reakce' (Chain Reaction) route, up the wall along the blunt edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Sirotek
Right of 'Legalizace', up a small corner to the ledge and up the wall along a crack (6 mm… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Sirotek
In the right part of the wall directly via 3 bolts and further diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Sirotek
Right of 'Údolní kout' (Valley Corner), up the overhanging wall (4 bolts) into the slab… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Sirotek
Through the center of the North wall directly via 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Sirotek
In the left part of the wall, up a prominent corner (bolt) to the end and traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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